I can  - prol'ly - easily unscrew the pipe - maybe - but perhaps  not -
one never knows. But there MUST be a torque value for the nut - because
that pressure is what holds that seal properly. It needs to be not to
little - not to much - and for that control - one needs to be able to
properly torque that nut holding the cooler. I just don't want to get
into something I can't fix, or at least fix without a great big hassle -
like having to pull the engine or something.

John

On 1/4/2014 4:29 PM, Alistair Bell wrote:
> Maybe I'm slow or something, but why not just take off that nut and slide the cooler off the nipple?
>
> I'm pretty sure I didn't unscrew the nipple last spring when I had the cooler off.
>
> Alistair
>
>
>
>> On Jan 4, 2014, at 2:15 PM, JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>
>> I am almost ready to remove the cooler after my big oil leak. Have new
>> O-ring, new filter and oil ready to go, and an exquisite 3/8 internal
>> pipe wrench.
>>
>> Question:: Does the big nut threaded on the pipe though the oil cooler
>> have to come off before the pipe itself can be backed out? Or is the nut
>> there just to set the position of the cooler on the pipe?
>>
>> I ask for two reasons:
>>
>> 1) 24 MM is the largest socket I have - I don't what size that nut is -
>> and if I have to buy one - I would appreciate someone telling me what
>> the correct size is.
>>
>> 2) The nut on the pipe has shoulders - and I don't think it will be
>> possible to get a socket to fit to it and hold. The nut shoulder extend
>> above the surface of the recess it fits in, but with the shoulders
>> rounded  - factory rounded it's obvious - the socket won;t grip.
>>
>> Will just reefing on the pipe with the internal pipe wrench - without
>> loosening that nut - do any significant damage?
>>
>> Any ideas as to how to approach this little project?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>