thepartsplace.com has the tools needed in a kit for approximately$140.00.
Thats where I got mine.

Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
On Jan 28, 2014 11:47 AM, "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> To replace the timing belt, you first need some stuff:
>
> Timing Belt
> Tensioner
>
> and you need some tools:
>
> cam locking plate (metal bar that goes into the slot at the back of the
> cam)
> Injector pump locking pin
> Tensioner adjustment tool
>
> The Haynes manual, at least, gives you drill size you can substitute for
> the cam locking pin and I think the thickness of the cam locking bar. There
> isn't much subsitute for the tensioner adjuster, although the first time I
> did it I used some smallish bent nosed needlenose pliers. On an 82 you will
> need a 15 mm wrench for the tensioner nut.
>
> And you need to know what to do.
>
> First, get the engine to TDC. You will know it is at TDC by the flyweel
> mark when the groove on the inside of the injector pump pulley is adjacent
> to and aligned with the nearby groove in the mounting bracket. Further
> proof you are at TDC is that the two cam lobes nearest you are pointing up,
> and further still that the cam locking plate drops neatly into the slot.
>
> If it doesn't drop neatly into the slot, you are either not exactly at
> flywheel TDC or else your cam needs retiming. But that's another (related)
> story.
>
> Drop the muffler. Thank me later.
>
> With all this done, remove the water pump pulley on an 82 or the whole
> crank pulley (just four allen bolts) on later models. It's probably easier
> to remove the pulley anyway. You may or may not have a stone guard on your
> 82 setup that needs to come off, but it will be obvious way down low on
> your engine.
>
> Loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off little by little at its four main
> points of contact:
>
> Injector pulley
> Cam pulley
> intermediate shaft pulley
> Crank pulley
>
> Now slip the new belt back on, routing it from the bottom up.
>
> A mosquito's breath can get your TDC out of whack while pulling all the
> tension you can out of the belt as you work your way up. Check it again
> before proceeding.
>
> Get some belt teeth over the cam pulley, then turn your attention to to the
> pump. Notice that the locking pin is cocked a little to your left from the
> pressure of the pump internals. With your thumb, preload this pin back to
> get rid of the angle before slipping the belt on. You want it sticking out
> or you'll be a tooth off, and you only have two teeth before interference
> sets in. Check TDC again. If OK, tighten the tensioner slightly against the
> belt. Remove the locking plate and the pin, and use a socket wrench to give
> the crank four revolutions to check for interference with the valves. Hit
> the top of the belt between the pulleys with a mallet. While turning the
> adjuster wrench (its two pins fit the holes in the face of the adjuster)
> turn it up and to the right, counterclockwise, while twisting the belt at
> the top with your other hand. You should be able to turn it through 45
> degrees with moderate finger pressure.
>
> Holding the tensioner adjuster at this angle, tighten the adjuster lock
> nut. Put the valve cover back on and you are done.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Steve <loudmouth_70@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Listies:
> >
> > Time to change my timing belt on my 82 diesel.  I've got the Bentley but
> I
> > need more detail.  Should I go with Haynes or maybe there's an online
> > resource that spells out the process in more detail?
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > Steve
> >
>