I believe my original pressure plate has 1 timing tab and my new one has 2
tabs and one notch.

Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
On Jan 29, 2014 12:09 AM, "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

>  That's very strange as diesel vanagon clutch pressure plates are indexed
> on 3 pins on the flywheel,
> thus the pressure plate  only fits one way. And everyone I've ever seen
> ..I only use Sachs clutches ..
> has just one timing mark on it.
>
> the pins are missing from the flywheel though sometimes.
>
>
>  On 1/28/2014 4:18 PM, ralph meyermann wrote:
>
> I recently encountered an issue with my new clutch assembly. It has 3
> timing marks, my old one has one! Check to see what you have.
>
> Velma 82 1.9L AAZ td westy
> On Jan 28, 2014 3:45 PM, "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>
>  there are two ways to do this job in my world..
> one is the 'cheater method' where you lock the cam sure ...and basically
> slip the old belt off, new belt on ..
> while working cleverly to get the marks to all stay where they belong
> ,especially the crankshaft mark in the bell housing window.
>
> that's the cheater/slam dunk method.
> the real right way is ..
> check the injection timing first ..to see where it's been running all
> this time ( in case you really like how it runs and you want to know if'
> it's been at .90 or 1.00 or whatever...and so you have an idea if it's
> been right or not . )
>
> remove cam sprocket from cam.
> this is becuase the cam sprocket is not keyed to the cam and fits at an
> infenite number of positions ..
> for example..
> say you have belt tension and injection timing 'perfect' on a t-belt
> with 20,000 miles on it.
> Every few years you check belt tension and maybe tighten it up a bit to
> comensate for very slight t-belt stretching over time.
> Maybe you check injection timing or you don't .
>
> maybe belt tension and injection timing were set perfect with 30,000
> miles o the belt.
> at 60,000 on the belt ..
> if you just slap in a new belt ...and adjust the tension ..
> the camshaft relationship to the crankshaft will be very close ..but not
> precisely where it was when the belt was put on right.
> the real right way to tension a new timing belt is ..
> with everything locked in place..
> but sprocket very slightly loose on the cam ..tension the belt ..
> then tighten down the cam sprocket  bolt to the cam 'pretty good' but
> don't go for final torque quite yet.
>
> Do not try to get final bolt torque just yet , do that after you've
> removed locks, turned the engine a little, so you can hold a large round
> locking bar of some sort in a cam sprocket hole...
> then do the final cam sprocket bolt tightening.
>
> a classic screw up is to try to tighten the cam sprocket bolt to full
> torque using the cam lock plate to hold the cam from turning ..that will
> just break off half of the cam where the lock fits.
> I've seen that few times..
> and get this ..even by a guy that is a college class automtoive
> instructor ..who used to write for Haynes Manuals .
>
> When belt tension is right ..
> all marks line up perfectly after two full turns clockwise..
> you are sure everything is properly tight ( there is zero margin for
> anything to be less than perfect here )
>
> then ..check and adjust the injection timing.
>
> it does take a LOT longer to do it right ..including the extra step of
> checking the injection timing before you take anything apart.
>
> and ...this is how projects grow ..
> if non-hydralic lifters ..........valve clearances should be checked too ..
> and ...heck ..
> now we want to be sure glow plugs are working right ...and
> well...sure would be good to check injector spray pattern..
> and while we've done all this ....might as well check the compression ..
> and dang ..how long has it been since I changed out that clutch
> hydraulic fluid on that slave cylinder right in front of me ?
>
> have fun !
> jim lahey
>
>
> On 1/28/2014 9:47 AM, Jim Felder wrote:
>
>
>  Steve,
>
> To replace the timing belt, you first need some stuff:
>
> Timing Belt
> Tensioner
>
> and you need some tools:
>
> cam locking plate (metal bar that goes into the slot at the back of the
> cam)
> Injector pump locking pin
> Tensioner adjustment tool
>
> The Haynes manual, at least, gives you drill size you can substitute for
> the cam locking pin and I think the thickness of the cam locking bar.
> There
> isn't much subsitute for the tensioner adjuster, although the first time I
> did it I used some smallish bent nosed needlenose pliers. On an 82 you
> will
> need a 15 mm wrench for the tensioner nut.
>
> And you need to know what to do.
>
> First, get the engine to TDC. You will know it is at TDC by the flyweel
> mark when the groove on the inside of the injector pump pulley is adjacent
> to and aligned with the nearby groove in the mounting bracket. Further
> proof you are at TDC is that the two cam lobes nearest you are pointing
> up,
> and further still that the cam locking plate drops neatly into the slot.
>
> If it doesn't drop neatly into the slot, you are either not exactly at
> flywheel TDC or else your cam needs retiming. But that's another (related)
> story.
>
> Drop the muffler. Thank me later.
>
> With all this done, remove the water pump pulley on an 82 or the whole
> crank pulley (just four allen bolts) on later models. It's probably easier
> to remove the pulley anyway. You may or may not have a stone guard on your
> 82 setup that needs to come off, but it will be obvious way down low on
> your engine.
>
> Loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off little by little at its four main
> points of contact:
>
> Injector pulley
> Cam pulley
> intermediate shaft pulley
> Crank pulley
>
> Now slip the new belt back on, routing it from the bottom up.
>
> A mosquito's breath can get your TDC out of whack while pulling all the
> tension you can out of the belt as you work your way up. Check it again
> before proceeding.
>
> Get some belt teeth over the cam pulley, then turn your attention to to
> the
> pump. Notice that the locking pin is cocked a little to your left from the
> pressure of the pump internals. With your thumb, preload this pin back to
> get rid of the angle before slipping the belt on. You want it sticking out
> or you'll be a tooth off, and you only have two teeth before interference
> sets in. Check TDC again. If OK, tighten the tensioner slightly against
> the
> belt. Remove the locking plate and the pin, and use a socket wrench to
> give
> the crank four revolutions to check for interference with the valves. Hit
> the top of the belt between the pulleys with a mallet. While turning the
> adjuster wrench (its two pins fit the holes in the face of the adjuster)
> turn it up and to the right, counterclockwise, while twisting the belt at
> the top with your other hand. You should be able to turn it through 45
> degrees with moderate finger pressure.
>
> Holding the tensioner adjuster at this angle, tighten the adjuster lock
> nut. Put the valve cover back on and you are done.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Steve <loudmouth_70@yahoo.com> <loudmouth_70@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>  Listies:
>
>
> Time to change my timing belt on my 82 diesel.  I've got the Bentley but
> I
> need more detail.  Should I go with Haynes or maybe there's an online
> resource that spells out the process in more detail?
>
> thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>