My 84, when I did the RWBs, I had to use a 4'cheater bar on a 3/4 Dr socket
and it took me and my S.O. both jumping on the very end plus heating it to
break the axle nut loose. I tried one of those bash-wrenches first, too.
We had so much leverage as we bounced on that cheater-bar that we were
actually lifting the front wheel! Those big nuts are tight.
On Feb 5, 2014 7:22 AM, "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:

> This sounds like the way I would go if I were not going to replace the
> trailing arm bushings at the same time. Back last year when. I was
> replacing all the bushings and springs I pulled off the right side arm but
> the left side would not come off. I hammered witha brass drift on the
> outside bolt but it would not move. I got things hot enough to get the
> rubber smoking and nothing. I finally put the car back together as I had to
> use it. This time around I will be prepared to drill it out. If anyone has
> a replacement bolt for the one I am about to demolish, please let me know.
>
> Getting at the bearing ought to be trivial with the trailing arm off.
>
> I suppose I should consider removing the axle nut with the trailing arm on
> the car. I have a vise big enough for the job but I doubt the table it is
> bolted to will hold up.
>
> Jim
>
> > On Feb 4, 2014, at 11:12 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > There is no reason the rear wheel bearing can't be done with the housing
> > left on the van. After removing the drive axle there is plenty of room.
> You
> > want some good tools including a "Dead Blow" hammer, some good flat
> punches,
> > and some pipe or sleeve material so you use the nut to pull the shaft
> into
> > the new bearings. A large drift punch and hammer will get the bearings
> out
> > of the housing. You will also need a large internal snap ring plier to
> deal
> > with that ring on the inner bearing. Not counting the CV joints should
> take
> > about an hour to change the bearings and seals each side.
> >
> > If you do get the urge to remove the housing consider new bolts and use
> > Loctite. Torque to spec. It is not a good day when those bolts loosen.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of
> > Jim Felder
> > Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 6:34 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Rear wheel bearings
> >
> > I know it's in BTDT, I'm looking at the Bentley, and have Bell's
> excellent
> > writeup to go by. But rear wheel bearings are still the last charted
> Vanagon
> > territory for me. But, I'm about to have to do it.
> >
> > So, the deal is, you mightily chock the wheels, cheat the nut off, and
> then
> > you can pull the hub off? Then the brakes and backing plates come off,
> and
> > then what?
> >
> > Is Bell showing that you don't have to pull the stub axle out until it's
> on
> > the bench. As usual, I could figure this out eventually, but I like to
> know
> > in advance.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> >
>