<html><body><span style="font-family:Verdana; color:#000000; font-size:10pt;"><div>Follow-up...</div><div><br></div><div>Removed the ECU last night and opened it up.&nbsp; Inspection revealed a bad solder joint at the larger WIMA capacitor.&nbsp; I resoldered this joint and reflowed many others.&nbsp; Reinstalled late and test drove, no symptoms.&nbsp; No symptoms this morning either.&nbsp; Wish I had found this 3-4 months ago!&nbsp; Hopefully it's licked.</div><div><br></div><div>Image of the bad joint:<br></div><div><a target="_blank" href="http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g243/budgetzagato/IMG_20140210_191237226_zps8529fc01.jpg">http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g243/budgetzagato/IMG_20140210_191237226_zps8529fc01.jpg</a> <br></div><div><br></div><div>Gregory Smith</div><div>'88 Vanagon GL</div><div>'77 Lancia Scorpion<br>Olympia, WA</div><div><br> <div id="wmQuoteWrapper"> -------- Original Message --------<br> Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 14:12:53 -0700<br> From: Gregory Smith &lt;<a target="_blank" href="mailto:gfs@GREGORYFSMITH.COM">gfs@GREGORYFSMITH.COM</a>&gt;<br> Subject: '88 GL ignition miss, stalling<br> <br> &lt;html&gt;&lt;body&gt;&lt;span style=3D"font-family:Verdana; color:#000000; font-size:10=<br> pt;"&gt;&lt;div&gt;Hi fellow listers,&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I've been struggling =<br> to fix an intermittent ignition miss on my '88 GL.&amp;nbsp; It started several=<br> months ago, came on gradually.&amp;nbsp; At first I could feel it, then I noti=<br> ced the tach dropping out when it happened.&amp;nbsp; Eventually it would stall=<br> and restart, sometimes causing a backfire.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Initia=<br> lly I suspected the ignition, so I did a full tune-up parts replacement.&amp;nb=<br> sp; Plugs, cap, rotor, wires.&amp;nbsp; Thought it was fixed but it came back i=<br> n a day or two.&amp;nbsp; I ran the Bentley tests.&amp;nbsp; Eventually I decided t=<br> hat the hall effect sensor was bad, it had a loose socket anyway.&amp;nbsp; I r=<br> eplaced that with one from another distributor and while I was at it replac=<br> ed the business end of the wire harness as well as the ground wire at that =<br> end, they were all corroded and had bad insulation.&amp;nbsp; Also replaced the=<br> ignition switch electrical part.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;This seemed =<br> to fix it for exactly 2 months.&amp;nbsp; Then it started again.&amp;nbsp; I ordere=<br> d a new hall sensor and replaced it this past weekend.&amp;nbsp; Ran the Bentle=<br> y tests again, everything checks out.&amp;nbsp; The problem was gone for 1 day,=<br> came back this morning.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I'm left with the ECU=<br> , like possibly cracked solder joints or something like that, or possibly t=<br> he power wire to the ECU from the alternator.&amp;nbsp; I read about this on th=<br> e Samba, someone found this wire frayed inside the insulation, under the AF=<br> M.&amp;nbsp; I'll check on this today.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Another thing t=<br> hat sometimes occurs that may be related, but is not synchronized with this=<br> problem is sometimes while driving the seatbelt warning light will come on=<br> e and go back out (I think it's on a timer).&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;I=<br> deas welcome, and thanks.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Gregory Smith&lt;/div&gt;&lt;=<br> div&gt;Olympia WA, USA&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;'88 Vanagon GL&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/span=<br> &gt;&lt;/body&gt;&lt;/html&gt;</div><div></div> </div></span></body></html>