Don,

That is surely a moisture accumulator spot - snow, ice, rain, mud - all
comes in ou8r geet and winds up there.

If one hasn't ever pulled up the carpet and looked carefully - I
strongly recommend they do so. Once that location rusts through - its
tough to  fix properly because there are several humps and bends in the
factory metal - and trying to match that in a repair is a real pain PITA.

John

On 2/8/2014 8:18 AM, Don Hanson wrote:
> Epoxy is temperature-sensitive.  Probably take a long time to cure unless
> your van  can be warmed.  You'd also want bare metal and dry to get a good
> bond.
>
>    The accelerator pedal is something I need to have a look at on my van,
> too.  A moisture spot for sure.  I'm probably in need of preemptive repairs
> there.
> On Feb 7, 2014 10:41 PM, "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>> If you get professional grade two-part metal epoxy ..
>> I get mine from a 'real' automtoive paint and body repair materials
>> store ...
>> I call this stuff space ship glue ..
>> two clean pieces of metal bonded together with this stuff ..
>> and it will NEVER come apart.
>>   You have to buy the mixing gun/dispenser also, a one-time expense.
>>
>> I swear ..a six inch by six inc metal patch  bonded to the roof to the
>> roof of the van with this stuff..you could lift the whole van with a
>> crane from that patch ..it's that strong and permanent.
>>
>> it's perfect for floor repair. I like galvanized sheet metal there...or
>> aluminum ..or stainless steel ...
>>
>> I have repaired jacking points on a mercedes car with it even.
>> Not cheap ...but strongern' hell.
>>
>>
>> On 2/7/2014 9:00 PM, JRodgers wrote:
>>
>>> The floor on Ol' Red rusted through at the rivet holes. Fortunately
>>> there was enough metal there to put two of those sheet metal fasteners
>>> in place to accept sheet metal screws. For the time being it's working,
>>> but looks like I've got to have a piece of sheet metal hammered to shape
>>> and welded in. not a fun place to patch. Body shop wants 300 bucks for a
>>> bodyshop type repair.
>>>
>>> JOhn
>>>
>>> On 2/7/2014 10:46 PM, Tom Buese wrote:
>>>
>>>> I had my pedal ( Doka) break loose 750 miles from home-used duct tape
>>>> for
>>>> the drive home-replaced at home w/ self tapping sheetmetal screws, IIRC.
>>>> Detail is similar from splits to Vanagons. You can always change the
>>>> sheetmetal screws to Max's detail when the weather is nicer?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Feb 7, 2014 at 11:05 PM, Max Wellhouse
>>>> <dimwittedmoose@cfu.net>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>   On 2/7/2014 9:34 PM, Jim Arnott wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>   The pedal came loose at the floor. ETKA shows pop rivets as the
>>>>>> attaching
>>>>>> fasteners. Can anyone verify this? (Pop rivets will make fixing it
>>>>>> MUCH
>>>>>> easier, but if they're threaded fasteners, I'll have to come up with a
>>>>>> better failed fastener removal strategy than a punch and a BFH.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Does anyone have hands on experience? (I'm going to be fixing this
>>>>>> in a
>>>>>> snowstorm. If I don't have to pull the frozen carpet, that would be
>>>>>> wonderful.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jim
>>>>>>
>>>>>>   My rivets failed several years ago in the midst of an Iowa winter. NO
>>>>> fun to do cold.  I fixed it once and for all.  Took two #10 pan head
>>>>> stainless machine screws and pooked them through the floor and used ss
>>>>> fender washers and ss nylox nuts and you wil lneed a 2nd pair of hands
>>>>> to finish the tightening sequence.  I was not going ot have this happen
>>>>> again....
>>>>>
>>>>> YMMV
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> DM&FS
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Tom Buese
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>