Skip to main content
Gerry | Vanagon
Checking account...
← vanagon.com home · Continue the discussion in the forum
Subject:Re: Engine Starting Problem
From:OlRivrRat
Date:Tue, 25 Feb 2014 15:57:54 -0700

If you Switch to a 10 or 5 or even 0W** Oil that ColdLifterSyndrome will most probably be diminished or

may even go away completely ~

                                                                        ORR ~ DeanB

On 25 Feb , 2014, at 2:58 PM, Steven Shelton wrote:

> I drove it around for a while and now the noise is tolerable.  I'd never
> heard it that loud.  I let the oil drain overnight before I refilled it;
> maybe that had something to do with it.
> 
> Well, I spent half the day trying to fix a starting problem, didn't find
> anything wrong, and now it starts fine.  Not very satisfying.  Thank you
> all for your suggestions, though.  Just knowing there are people out there
> with a lot more knowledge than I have gives me the confidence to attempt
> these repairs.
> 
> 
> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 3:59 PM, JRodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Having a Mann oil filter will help prevent this.
>> 
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> On 2/25/2014 2:28 PM, Steven Shelton wrote:
>> 
>>> This is turning into a real nightmare.  I reinstalled the AFM; now it
>>> starts fine, but the engine makes a loud clattering!  It's done this
>>> occasionally over the years, but always went away pretty quickly.  Now it
>>> won't stop.  I've gone over it with a stethoscope and it seems to be
>>> loudest at the driver's side of the intake air distributor, but it's hard
>>> to pinpoint.  I disconnected the fuel injector plugs and cranked the
>>> engine
>>> to see if something was bouncing around in a cylinder, but heard nothing.
>>>  Can all this be related?  It all started off with a shorted oil pressure
>>> sensor wire.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Intermittent problems are often elusive. Will it start reliably with the
>>>> AFM
>>>> disconnected? If yes then you do have a mixture control issue and the
>>>> sensor
>>>> being disconnected is helping get past it. I would look for massive
>>>> vacuum
>>>> leaks and wiring issues. Except for the O2 sensor which is a
>>>> "consumable",
>>>> it is very rare for any of the other sensors to go bad. Again, the
>>>> connectors and wiring is more often the real problem.
>>>> 
>>>> Dennis
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>>>> Of
>>>> Steven Shelton
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 2:12 PM
>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>> Subject: Re: Engine Starting Problem
>>>> 
>>>> I meant that the engine turns over and over but it will not start/run.  I
>>>> checked the intake air sensor (Bentley 1999 edition pg 24.28):
>>>> 
>>>> 2-3        556
>>>> 6-9        557
>>>> 6-22      2697@18 degrees C
>>>> 2-3 and 7-9:  ohms change as I moved the sensor plate
>>>> 
>>>> Is this a definitive test or could there still be something wrong with
>>>> intake air sensor?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 1:59 PM, Dennis Haynes
>>>> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Cranking and starting are two completely different issues. The starter
>>>>> will crank (turn)the engine over if you removed the complete fuel
>>>>> delivery system and put it out to the garbage.
>>>>> Check the wiring on the back of the starter. The solenoid trigger wire
>>>>> may be loose and you're working near there is making or breaking that
>>>>> connection.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>>>>> Behalf Of Steven Shelton
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 1:18 PM
>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>> Subject: Re: Engine Starting Problem
>>>>> 
>>>>> OK, as I said above, the engine would not crank at all, even after
>>>>> returning to it using a charged battery the next day.  As soon as i
>>>>> removed the AFM, even with the #1 spark plug removed, the engine
>>>>> cranked right up.
>>>>>  I checked the ECU connector, with the following results:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 2-7     3213 ohms@16 degrees C
>>>>> at this temperature the reading should be 3000 ohm to 3500 ohm.
>>>>> I also checked at the temp 2 sensor, it was 3178 ohm.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Other readings were:
>>>>> 1-7     10.64 V
>>>>> 5-7      infinity
>>>>> 6-19    558 ohm
>>>>> 7-25      0 ohm
>>>>> 11-7     14.9 ohm
>>>>> 12-7     15.1
>>>>> 14-6     3154 ohm
>>>>> 15-19     555 ohm at rest, it moved up when I moved the plate
>>>>> 
>>>>> Does this mean conclusively that the temp 2 sensor is OK?  Any
>>>>> suggestions on what to try next?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>