Mobil ! filter works for me as does a Mann.

alistair

On Feb 26, 2014, at 8:56 AM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

> I don't know about the Mann filter's ability to alter or improve the
> various things being discussed here, but when my 90 Carat--which I bought
> new so I knew the history of it--got up there above 160K miles, and I used
> a FLAPS filter, my oil warning buzzer sometimes came on during extended
> highway runs. With a "german" filter, it did not. The fact that this seems
> to happen as well to other Vanagon owners as well might account in itself
> for why they are recommended as being the "right" stuff.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 10:50 AM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
>
>> Good point.  But, people who deem themselves knowledgeable sure extol the
>> importance of this oil filter feature.  mcneely
>>
>> ---- Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>> I've never been clear about what the heck an anti drain back valve does
>> on an oil filter that is pointing more or less down as it does on the wbx.
>>>
>>> Maybe it is an anti suck up valve?
>>>
>>> Alistair
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Feb 25, 2014, at 4:03 PM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The filter will work with any oil.  The filter has an anti drain back
>> valve.  So do a lot of other quality filters, and some that are not so
>> good, at least I hear that they are not so good.  Given the good marks
>> given to both Mann and Meyle oil filters by a lot of people who know more
>> than I do, and their availability and price from the online Vanagon parts
>> vendors, I use them.  mcneely
>>>>
>>>> ---- Eric Caron <ecaron1@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
>>>>> My van sits a long time between starts.  How would this filter help
>> and would it work with mobile 1 Synthetic?
>>>>>
>>>>> Eric Caron
>>>>> 85 GL Auto
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 25, 2014, at 3:59 PM, JRodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Having a Mann oil filter will help prevent this.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 2/25/2014 2:28 PM, Steven Shelton wrote:
>>>>>>> This is turning into a real nightmare.  I reinstalled the AFM; now
>> it
>>>>>>> starts fine, but the engine makes a loud clattering!  It's done this
>>>>>>> occasionally over the years, but always went away pretty quickly.
>> Now it
>>>>>>> won't stop.  I've gone over it with a stethoscope and it seems to be
>>>>>>> loudest at the driver's side of the intake air distributor, but
>> it's hard
>>>>>>> to pinpoint.  I disconnected the fuel injector plugs and cranked
>> the engine
>>>>>>> to see if something was bouncing around in a cylinder, but heard
>> nothing.
>>>>>>> Can all this be related?  It all started off with a shorted oil
>> pressure
>>>>>>> sensor wire.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Dennis Haynes <
>> d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Intermittent problems are often elusive. Will it start reliably
>> with the
>>>>>>>> AFM
>>>>>>>> disconnected? If yes then you do have a mixture control issue and
>> the
>>>>>>>> sensor
>>>>>>>> being disconnected is helping get past it. I would look for
>> massive vacuum
>>>>>>>> leaks and wiring issues. Except for the O2 sensor which is a
>> "consumable",
>>>>>>>> it is very rare for any of the other sensors to go bad. Again, the
>>>>>>>> connectors and wiring is more often the real problem.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Dennis
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> Behalf Of
>>>>>>>> Steven Shelton
>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 2:12 PM
>>>>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: Engine Starting Problem
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I meant that the engine turns over and over but it will not
>> start/run.  I
>>>>>>>> checked the intake air sensor (Bentley 1999 edition pg 24.28):
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> 2-3        556
>>>>>>>> 6-9        557
>>>>>>>> 6-22      2697@18 degrees C
>>>>>>>> 2-3 and 7-9:  ohms change as I moved the sensor plate
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Is this a definitive test or could there still be something wrong
>> with
>>>>>>>> intake air sensor?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 1:59 PM, Dennis Haynes
>>>>>>>> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Cranking and starting are two completely different issues. The
>> starter
>>>>>>>>> will crank (turn)the engine over if you removed the complete fuel
>>>>>>>>> delivery system and put it out to the garbage.
>>>>>>>>> Check the wiring on the back of the starter. The solenoid trigger
>> wire
>>>>>>>>> may be loose and you're working near there is making or breaking
>> that
>>>>>>>>> connection.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Dennis
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>>>>>>>>> Behalf Of Steven Shelton
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 1:18 PM
>>>>>>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: Engine Starting Problem
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> OK, as I said above, the engine would not crank at all, even after
>>>>>>>>> returning to it using a charged battery the next day.  As soon as
>> i
>>>>>>>>> removed the AFM, even with the #1 spark plug removed, the engine
>>>>>>>>> cranked right up.
>>>>>>>>> I checked the ECU connector, with the following results:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> 2-7     3213 ohms@16 degrees C
>>>>>>>>> at this temperature the reading should be 3000 ohm to 3500 ohm.
>>>>>>>>> I also checked at the temp 2 sensor, it was 3178 ohm.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Other readings were:
>>>>>>>>> 1-7     10.64 V
>>>>>>>>> 5-7      infinity
>>>>>>>>> 6-19    558 ohm
>>>>>>>>> 7-25      0 ohm
>>>>>>>>> 11-7     14.9 ohm
>>>>>>>>> 12-7     15.1
>>>>>>>>> 14-6     3154 ohm
>>>>>>>>> 15-19     555 ohm at rest, it moved up when I moved the plate
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Does this mean conclusively that the temp 2 sensor is OK?  Any
>>>>>>>>> suggestions on what to try next?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> David McNeely
>>
>> --
>> David McNeely
>>