I'm suprised more  members have not cut up a steel wheel ..
like around the middle...
then weld a solid,  fat, even box section,  2 foot arm on there..
and you've got the perfect 'wheel holder' .

I made mine about 28 yrs ago ..works perfect on Vanagon and mercedes benz's.

3/4 inch breaker bar..the kind with the sliding piece is perfect..
I paid like $ 24  for mine, including now sales tax some 40 yrs ago..
still workin' fine.  I cheat though ..I lubricate things.
that plus a 3ish foot cheater bar....works nicely.

On 3/11/2014 8:19 PM, TJ Hemrick wrote:
> All,
>    While updating my wheels, I needed a special tool and thought I'd pass
> this on to everyone if they need it.
>
>    I have a pretty thorough tool box but, the other day, I found I needed
> something new (again).  While removing the rear drums (can't wait to pitch
> those things for some discs one day), I have this:
> <http://tinyurl.com/m8osucw> in both 46 mm and 36 mm sizes for hammering
> off the rear axle nuts on various VW's.  Great you say.  Well, after
> updating my rims to Audi rims, I needed longer studs.  While only 10 mm
> longer, they were more than long enough for the rims but suddenly, I could
> barely angle the tool to even halfway tighten it.  Putting it on square was
> totally out of the question.  The new (longer) studs were in the way.  Oh,
> I need a 46 mm *socket*.  I have a 36 mm socket but not 46.  So, in
> disgust, I close up the operation and head home.  I hit the internet and
> find a variety of local places that might have them.  FLAPS, Autozone,
> Advance Auto, even Harbor Freight.  No luck.  BTW, the SAE size is very
> very close to 1 13/16.  I hit the user groups and find that BMW E46's use
> the same size as do Ducati motorcycles.  Yes, the internet rules.  None of
> the groups gave me the answer but I found a variety of sockets from the mid
> $30's and all the way into the hundreds.  Yes, hundreds.  Now, this is an
> extreme example but according to the *description*, it's a 1 1/2" drive.  <
> http://tinyurl.com/pwluagm>  I've never used any drive bigger than 1" so
> that was a shocker.  But wait, the real shocker is it only costs $398.21!
>   OK, so it's specialty item.  Anyway....
> I found this at Tractor Supply <http://tinyurl.com/lol6z9p>  It's actually
> pretty nice.  Seems rugged without being overly large or thick.  Best of
> all, it's $9.99.  Seems like a deal.  Paired with the 3/4" breaker bar from
> Harbor Freight ($23) and it went very well tightening those rear axle nuts.
>   I used a little math to use my weight plus the length of the bar to come
> up with the proper torque value and then did the "bounce" to line up the
> cotter key.  I will post an update IF it gives out when trying to take the
> nuts off with an impact wrench.  That's the real test.  I will say that my
> rims (again, Audi rims) do NOT allow it (the socket) to be used with the
> wheel mounted on the drum/hub, but the Audi rims have a very tight fit
> around the center so I can't see any socket worth that type of torque range
> being that thin.  Maybe for a price but for something used so seldom, I
> didn't bother looking.  I just have to use a special tool to hold the hub
> still.  Note to self, replacement studs are NOT capable of staying straight
> if you try to jam a long breaker bar in between a few studs and brace it on
> the pavement.  Yes, you can tighten the hub nut but the studs will splay.
>   I'm just saying...
>
> TJ
> 87 Syncro
>