Thanks, that will give me a close reference to check with

Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
On Mar 13, 2014 10:48 AM, "Dick Wong" <sailingfc@dslextreme.com> wrote:

> General rule of thumb for bolt to nut engagement:  From a strength
> standpoint, the minimum length of thread engagement should be at least the
> diameter of the bolt.  For a 14mm x 1.5 lugnut/lugbolt, you should go for
> 14mm of engagement.  If you can't measure the available thread length, you
> can calculate the minimum number of turns needed by knowing the thread
> pitch.  In our case, the thread pitch is 1.5mm per thread.  The nominal
> bolt diameter is 14mm, therefore 14mm/1.5mm per thread = 9.3 threads.  And
> since there is one thread engagement for each turn, the minimum number of
> turns is 9.3 for the nut/bolt engagement.
>
> In the case of a lugbolt engaging into the brake drum, if the drum wall
> thickness is less than the bolt diameter, there is no further strength gain
> by going beyond the depth of the available threads.
>
> If nothing else for a nut on a stud, make sure the stud is flush or
> protruding from the top of the nut.
>
> Hope this makes sense.
>
> -Dick-
> 87 Syncro
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 5:44 AM, Ralph Meyermann <ralphmeyermann@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Just want to make sure there's plenty of threads, pulling my small fishing
>> boat.
>>
>> Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
>> On Mar 13, 2014 7:11 AM, "Ben" <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Mark has already answered your question. Don't bother with the caliper.
>> > Just place a mark on the lugnut and count how many complete revolutions
>> you
>> > get out of it. The conical seat lugnuts can engage more threads as it
>> > "reaches" further into the wheel compared to the ballseat lugnuts. By
>> > virtue of their basic design, conical seat nuts have a wider cross
>> section
>> > that ballseat.
>> >
>> >
>> > BenT
>> > sent from my electronic leash
>> >
>> > On Mar 13, 2014, at 4:57 AM, Ralph Meyermann <ralphmeyermann@gmail.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > Another thing is that the bolt holes are recessed deeply in the wheels
>> > making it hard for a visual for length, may have to use my digital
>> caliper
>> > and do some calculations. But still thinking 10mm longer would be best.
>> >
>> > Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
>> > On Mar 13, 2014 6:51 AM, "Ralph Meyermann" <ralphmeyermann@gmail.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> >> My westy originally came with steel wheels. The 14" VW alloys I needed
>> >> longer bolts for the front and not enough threads on the rear for me
>> to be
>> >> comfortable. Thinking another 10mm of stud length would be fine. Have
>> yet
>> >> to size up wheel on the rear yet, the wheels came with new bolts and
>> nuts.
>> >>
>> >> Velma 82 1.9L AAZ TD Westy
>> >> On Mar 13, 2014 6:11 AM, "Ben" <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Jeff,
>> >>>
>> >>> That's how I've done it. Used a large section of pipe to act as a
>> spacer
>> >>> plus a washer on top. Lubed with WD40 and cranked away.
>> >>>
>> >>> Studs were EMPI "Nascar style" which is also offered by sway-away.
>> From
>> >>> the pics, it's the same ones most list vendors are offering now.
>> >>>
>> >>> The splines section on these studs are ever so slightly smaller than
>> the
>> >>> stock studs. That should make them easier to install.
>> >>>
>> >>> BenT
>> >>> sent from my electronic leash
>> >>>
>> >>> > On Mar 13, 2014, at 3:02 AM, J Stewart <fonman4277@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>> >>> >
>> >>> > Ben, how can you replace the studs without pulling  the hubs? Tried
>> >>> that once and ended up stripping out the new stud on the first try, so
>> >>> never did it again. I know you can do it one at a time, and pull them
>> into
>> >>> place by cranking down on a lug nut, but thats how I stripped one out.
>> >>> Jeff
>> >>> >
>> >>> >
>> >>> >
>> >>> >
>> >>> > Jeff Stewart
>> >>>
>> >>
>>
>
>