Glad you managed in the end. I had to use a compressor when installing longer springs and spacers. But it is good to know you can do the stock set up without the compressor, if needed.

Alistair

> On Mar 19, 2014, at 6:42 PM, Zeitgeist <gruengeist@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> Well, persistence appears to be working.  I successfully got the LF spring
> and shock in place.  But only after I completed what turned out to be dry
> run.  While smugly celebrating my victory, I realized that I had failed to
> put the bump stop back on.  My neighbors probably enjoyed being regaled
> with my obvious mastery of English vocabulary for various procreative
> activities, expressed loudly and with much repetitive enthusiasm.
> 
> Turns out that by putting the rear wheels back on the ground, and
> re-positioning the jack stands on the RS, I was able to create much more
> stability.  I also used a single screw type spring compressor to
> incrementally constrain the spring between strokes of the jack.
> Additionally, I found better locations for the ratchet strap, which really
> helped to center the shock in the hole.
> 
> While I was successful this time using the method in question, I will be
> purchasing a KTC A1047 before attempting this task again.
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 19, 2014 at 3:10 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>wrote:
> 
>> The proper spring compressor is the right way, especially with taller
>> springs and added shims. Without I find that removing the steering knuckle
>> to get things out of the way is real helpful. The let the bottom tube of
>> the
>> shock go through the lower control arm so the arm hits the spring seat.
>> Then
>> use a garage type jack (with a saddle) to lift the control arm by the outer
>> edge. This will give leverage and the arm will stabilize the shock so you
>> can jack things into position. Use a tube or something to guide the shock
>> stem through the hole and just get a nut and washer started. While doing
>> this you should have the lower control arm mount bolt loose so it can turn
>> with the arm. After this you can rework things to get that top rubber on
>> later. The lower mount should be tightened when the vehicle is back on the
>> ground so there is not twist in the rubber.
>> 
>> Dennis
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>> Zeitgeist
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2014 1:42 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: syncro spring removal without using spring compressor
>> 
>> Blast from the past alert...
>> 
>> So, I used Alistair's method to remove the front Syncro springs (and
>> everything else), but when I attempted to reinstall, the van got real
>> squirrely since it's not leveraging against the ground on the other side.
>> I can see how this can work if you're doing one side at a time, but is it
>> still possible to use the jack and strap method with the van up on stands?
>> Strikes me as somewhat suboptimal if I tip the van up and off its stands
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 5:18 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>> You guys on the syncro list were right :)
>>> 
>>> It can be done.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://shufti.wordpress.com/2012/07/19/vanagon-syncro-front-spring-rem
>>> oval-without-spring-compressor/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> alistair
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Casey
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Casey