I used a landscaping tie with supporting blocks and shims (tie too
short) to support top. Lower end of tie and blocks were on floor up
against the Westy rear seat front board. Not an optimal arrangement,
as you had to be careful working around the tie. IIRC, I used stout
wire to secure tie to pop top latch. In hindsight, I would've screwed
a piece of 2"x4" (or just a screw?) at each end on top face of block
to keep the tie from wandering L/R. Weight of top seemed sufficient in
that regard though.

I wonder if a properly backed (lower end) support between luggage rack
and pop top would suffice? YMMV.   ;)

The top is heavy. The OEM springs in arms provide a great deal of assist.

A cable runs through spring in each lower arm terminating at the upper
arm "elbow". Some pics that should shed more light:

https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/PopTopStrutCableAndSpringEtc

IIRC, I was able to install the cross bar after the arms were in place
but I'm not certain of this. Sorry. Was doing R&D with combos of lift
assist kit, OEM springs, no OEM springs, etc. Cotter pins-clevis shown
used for R&D purposes. Copper piece shown was an attempt at an
"everyman" repair. Would suggest welding in steel.

If it were me, I'd take this opportunity to inspect the cables, arms, etc.

Neil.

On 4/24/14, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> Suart et al,
>
> What I was planning to do was just remove the crossbar, leaving the springs
> and uprights in place. Only the crossbar has corrosion. I was wondering
> specifically if there was any mechanical connection betweenthe crossbar and
> the uprights so that the springs somehow interfered with the removal or,
> worse, the thing would do something unpredictable with the top up and the
> crossbar removed.

--
Neil n

Blog: tubaneil.blogspot.ca

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'81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"  http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

Vanagon VAG *Gas* inline-VR Engine Swap Group:

http://tinyurl.com/d7gd5ej