Thanks for the info, Dennis.  I doubt that the wavy washers have
anywhere near the spring tension that belleville washers do, they're
about half the thickness, even once they all nest together in a stack.
I don't see the flanges deforming if the bolts are torqued just enough
to get a good seal and a light crush on the spring washer stack.  The
same amount of torque on a stack of wavy washers easily crush totally
them flat, which defeats the whole purpose of having some spring in the
joint to allow for some movement. I would torque the stack until its
partially depressed, leaving some space for spring-action, and not
trying to compress the cups completely flat.

Mike B.

On 5/3/2014 8:38 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> The spring washers were cupped together in a short stack. A stack of the
> wave style lock washers will also work. The real problem here is the flanges
> on the j-pipe deforming causing the connection to become loose.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Mike B
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:14 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: 2.1 exhaust spring washers
>
> Volks,
>     Does anyone have a picture or description of  how the 2.1 exhaust
> system donut gaskets hardware as it was originally installed?   I looked
> at the Bentley manual, and ETKA and found that the forward end of the
> connector pipe (where it meets the Y cast elbow) is supposed to have 65mm
> long bolts, 5 spring washers and 1 thick flat washer and a
> high-temp lock-nut.   The 5 spring washers are called diaphragm washers
> , also known as Belleville washers, which are basically cupped steel
> washers.   I need to know if the cups all nest together in a short stack
> or alternate against each other in a long stack.   The lock-nut
> obviously must have a specific torque and along with the spring washers,
> will this maintain a snug fit that can flex by use of a steady clamping
> force on the donuts and pipe flares.  The Bentley does not specify a torque
> value, so I'm assuming standard torque values.
>     I'm not interested in hearing how no-one ever does this and how yours has
> been just fine without the spring washers.
>     I'm looking for the correct information, so I can set mine up exactly the
> way that the factory engineered it.
>     I've experienced multiple joint failures due to them being assembled for
> years without these spring washers.  Now that I know why it's not lasting
> and have new parts, I want to do it right, as original.
>
> Thanks for any assistance.
> Mike B.