

| Subject: | Re: Off topic Friday question on switches... |
| From: | James |
| Date: | Fri, 16 May 2014 15:42:31 -0400 |
Unless his '220 volt, single phase' induction motor is European - German, say - where 220/240V is single phase and the two/three phase power is 480V! I occasionally see 'misplaced' European motors here in Canada. They can be wired to work correctly, but often they are not. The rest of your description of the wiring and start-up of induction motors is quite useful. James Ottawa, ON > Date: Fri, 16 May 2014 10:03:37 -0600 > From: gnarlodious@GMAIL.COM > Subject: Re: Off topic Friday question on switches... > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > I realize this is somewhat abstract terminology. There is no such thing as 220 > single phase. 220 is 2-phase, always. 110 is nominally single phase, and > 220 is 2-phase. > > 120 is single phase, "120/230 single phase" is a nonsensical statement. > > From the sound of your questions you may have wrongly wired a 2-phase > relay. Each phase must be switched through separate contacts to properly > suppress arcing when making contact. > > I'm not an expert, and I don't know what broke in your switch, but I > suspect your motor is the type that starts up on a low voltage and when > spinning switches over to high voltage. This is normally called a wye-delta > hookup. If you have wired it wrongly to start up on high voltage it can be > bad for your neighborhood, your workshop, your switch and your motor. > > In this scenario, the switch has a timer that spins up your motor, waits a > short amount of time, then switches to a higher voltage by adjusting which > phase hits the motor. A 3-phase motor would have 6 terminals running to the > switch, that is why the switch is so expensive. This wiring setup is used > on loaded (clutchless) machinery where the motor must slowly spin up some > mass using a lower voltage. Since an induction motor pulls infinite current > when not spinning, the wye-delta switch limits startup current until the > motor and load are spinning fast enough to protect your wiring and the > power company. > > If you are chronically running induction motors wrongly wired you may > receive a friendly visit from the power company inquiring as to why your > workshop is degrading their "Power Factor". In order for the wires to > deliver quality power all three phases must be aligned properly to carry > equal voltage and current throughout their phase. Any disruption of this > relationship degrades the Power Factor. > > In the third world people commonly take out the wye-delta switch and > substitute a plain switch, resulting in poor quality electricity and many > problems throughout the system. > > -- Gnarlie > > > > On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 8:59 AM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote: > > > I have an induction-motored thickness planer, running on 220 single phase > > power...It came with a magnetic switch that has broken now 3 times and > > costs over $50 to replace...Hate that. I found a normal power tool switch > > in my box, rated for a bigger motor than this tool I am working on > > now...but it is a "normal" heavy duty push button power tool switch, made > > for 120/230 single phase or 208/230/480 three phase... This switch has > > four terminals on the back, two labeled "Load" and two labeled "Line"... > > > > So the questions: > > > > Can I try to wire up this less expensive (and already owned) switch to > > make the 220 induction motor work? Right now I am using this tool, when I > > have to, with my power panel breaker box as the only switch....very > > un-safe and not at all convenient. I do need the use of this tool, but > > $50 a switch is now (in this tradesmen-unfriendly economic climate) not > > very feasible. > > > > Second question: If I decide to try this hack-job, wiring for the wrong > > switch, how should I connect the wires? Do I take the black and white > > wires to the two terminals labeled "LIne" and continue on after the switch > > with the same colors out to the tool from the "Load" posts of the switch? > > Or do I just break one of the "Line" wires and use just one of the 'Line > > and Load" terminals, like on a house wiring switch? > > > > I know this is sketchy stuff but it's really tough for a working man in > > the building trades now a days so I can't afford to do it right always when > > it comes to my own tools and expenses..I tried Goggling "induction motor > > wiring" etc etc...but I can't understand the wiring diagrams I get back... > > > > Respond off the list if you think you may be able to advise, and thanks > > Don Hanson > >
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