All y'all:

A quick and dirty way to clear the burner of cobwebs and such is to remove
the outside vent, open the drain tube and put a vacuum cleaner to the
intake and exhaust.  I am not a fan of yanking the fridge out, but if this
trick won't work than it must be done.

Upon reassembly of the vent parts, ensure a tight seal on the side of the
bus, otherwise the flame will likely blow out while you are driving.  This
also applies to leaving the drain plug open, the RM 182 is a closed system
and should draw just fine without resorting to tricks.

Geo/ATL

On Sat, Aug 9, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:

> ---- Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA> wrote:
> > All,
> >
> > The second issue is the "frig" does not want to light.    I have had it
> light twice {both time after it had been plugged in for some time and was
> cold}, but it went out almost immediately.   This was fine until last
> night, which was the first time we did not have an electric hookup on the
> trip.   I'll try Alistair's "pump until resolution or death" approach and
> see where that gets me.
>
> You might try this:  Open the drain plug at the base of the refrigerator
> (the little brass screw cap down by the floor).  Fit a piece of tubing over
> the drain tube.  Blow into the tubing.  Remove the tubing, and leave the
> drain plug open while you attempt to light the burner.  This might (1) blow
> debris away from the burner, and (2) get more air to the burner to get it
> lit.  It has worked for some.  Of course, if the burner is lighting but not
> staying lit because the flue is leaky, this won't make any difference in
> that.  If it does help get the burner lit, then you should close the plug
> after lighting.
>
> mcneely
>
>
> --
> David McNeely
>