

| Subject: | Re: Rear trailing arm repair: Port Townsend (WA) Muffler? |
| From: | Neil N |
| Date: | Thu, 4 Sep 2014 14:05:50 -0700 |
Hi Dennis. Ha ha. " quite remarkable results". Funny but of course the end result isn't. "Damage" on trailing arm was a ~ 3/8" rust hole and a few small cracks, at top of arm about 1.5" rearward of the bushing. Hole and cracks were covered with a welded on 1/8" thick patch. THe arm was not flexing but hole etc were close enough to area of arm around the bushing, that I thought it prudent to bolster that area with a patch sooner than later. Especially since I'm far from home. Excellent info and tips as usual Dennis! The front arms are the old style; stamped metal with the 3 bolt radius rod. They were in good shape last I checked about 5 years ago. I wondered about protecting the cavity. At the very least id shoot a bunch of Fluid Film inside the rear and front arms. I've wondered about the t3 technique products and their longevity. The vendor is certainly providing a great alternative and likely a better solution. I.e. The bushings for the manual steering rack. I hope to install 4 of those ASAP. Thanks for the user input. Traveling to Oregon, Neil. On Tuesday, September 2, 2014, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: > I forgot if your front arms are cast or also the pressed steel. If the > rear rusted enough to be concerned you really need to look at the fronts if > they are the pressed steel type. I have seen these collapse with quite > remarkable results. If they are in good condition you want to occasionally > spray wax type rust inhibitors into the internal cavities. I am at a loss > as to how this patch should improve things. Are you saying it rusted to the > point that the bushing areas was flexing? Don’t bother with the PB blaster > and stuff like it. All you are accomplishing is adding more fuel to the > fire. The trick to get these out is to cut them with a cut off wheel or > burn out the rubber with a torch and then you can cut the bolt and metal > sleeve. For your replacement mount consider the polyurethane offerings from > T3Technique. I recently did the front end of Fun Bus with their products. > There is no turning back now. Especially for the control arm mounts. I am > hooked! Combined with the Syncro.Org springs, Old Mane EMU shocks and the > 235/55-17XL tires it feels more like an Audi than a Vanagon. And with the > big brakes up front it even stops. Very pleased! > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of Neil N > Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2014 8:28 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <javascript:;> > Subject: Re: Rear trailing arm repair: Port Townsend (WA) Muffler? > > Got a 1/8" thick patch welded on. Should improve things. A small hole > remains at midpoint of arm near tube bushing passes through. > > > Patch likely made arm stronger at area of damage ........ > -- Neil n Blog: tubaneil.blogspot.ca '88 Westy http://tinyurl.com/c8rlw6p '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco" http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/ Vanagon VAG *Gas* inline-VR Engine Swap Group: http://tinyurl.com/d7gd5ej
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