Brett,

Let it convert the rust and dry thoroughly.  I would not rinse as you do not want to put moisture in the seams before you seal them.   

When you get your Rust Mort, pick-up a tube of seam sealer - it typically/usually comes in a tube similar to silicon or PL for use around the house - and goes in a caulking gun.  Caulk your seams (be sure not to cut the tip of the tube too wide) with a nice smooth bead - like when you run the silicon along the back edge of a countertop - do not smear it all over the place.

Once your seam sealer has setup/cured {remember, it will remain pliable), you can mask off the area, prime and paint.

On 13-Sep-2014, at 12:38, Brett Ne wrote:

> On Sat, Sep 13, 2014 at 7:12 AM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
> 
>> Brett,
>> 
>> I've used both Rust Mort {i.e. Rust death) and Restoleum Rust Converter
>> for years with not issues. There is also one called "Extend" - which cannot
>> be found here - which you could use.
>> 
>> I always remove paint and take the metal back as far as I dare before
>> applying it  - The obvious exception here being the seams on the Vanagon
>> ... here, after cleaning out the seam, I simply injected it using a syringe.
>> 
>> 
>> 
> Okay, I'm sold.  I found a store not too far away that sells Rust Mort.
> After you inject it into the seams, do you rinse it off after a bit of
> waiting?  How long do you let it dry before applying seam sealer?
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Brett in Portland, OR
> "Albert" '82 VanaFox I4 Riviera