Brett,

That should work ... I like to paint all at once, after applying the sealer, but if you are rattle-can painting, it makes little difference on the materials side.

On 14-Sep-2014, at 11:43, Brett Ne wrote:

> I'd never heard of fluid film, had to look it up.  I'm not going to treat
> the the inside of the panel.  The Rivieras have cabinetry on the passenger
> side, making access much less than fun.  The rust around the seam is pretty
> minor and confined to 3 small areas, so I'm not overly worried about it;
> just want to take reasonable precautions against future rust.  I've got a
> tube of SEM brand seam sealer from the autobody store.  So, my planned
> sequence looks something like this:
> 
> Take areas of concern to bare metal, clean out body seam, feather paint
> edges. (done)
> Inject Rust Mort into seam and let dry. (should be 90 today, easily done)
> Apply body filler to panels & block sand, being careful to not get filler
> in the seam.
> Apply glaze to panel & block sand, being careful to not get glazing into
> the seam.
> Apply seam sealer.
> Prime.
> Touch up with glaze & reprime if anything isn't quite right enough. (my
> standards are a bit low...this is a campmobile, not a showroom car)
> Paint.
> Go camping!
> 
> I'm assuming that since primer will absorb water, I will want to apply the
> seam sealer directly to the metal before the primer.  I will only apply a
> clear coat if the rattle can paint's gloss isn't as shiny as the current
> paint, which doesn't have a clear coat.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Brett in Portland, OR
> "Albert" '82 VanaFox I4 Riviera