I've got some seam sealer & cleaned out most of the crud.  Below are links
to 3 photos of the seam that goes around the rear passenger tire well.  I
didn't think to ask about rust converter when I was at the autobody store
today...ughh, it's a long drive...maybe my local hardware store will have
something.  Looking at the photos, does it look like I have removed enough
rust?  I'm new to autobody repair & don't want to cause more harm than good
by gouging out too much metal.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4930890/vanagon_body/IMG_2445.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4930890/vanagon_body/IMG_2448.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4930890/vanagon_body/IMG_2450.JPG

On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

> Brett,
>
> After you have treated the rust (from behind as well the front; injecting
> a rust converted neutralizer into the seam, etc.) and primed, you should
> consider putting new seam sealer into the seams (as VW did at the
> factory).  The seam sealer remains flexible (for many years) and keeps
> additional water & crud out.
>
> On 08-Sep-2014, at 11:49, Brett Ne wrote:
>
> > I'm doing some touch-up work on Albert to strip & repair some areas where
> > the bondo that was used by some previous owner has cracked & is starting
> to
> > rust underneath.  On the previous work, they had filled in some of the
> body
> > seam with bondo, but of course the flex of the two panels cracks the
> bondo
> > & allows water in.  I am planning on just priming and painting the seam.
> > Is there a better way of handling the seams to keep it from rusting as
> long
> > as possible?  Anti-rust compounds?  Special seam sealer/filler?  Moving
> to
> > Arizona??
> >
> > --
> > Brett in Portland, OR
> > "Albert" '82 VanaFox I4 Riviera
>
>

--
Brett in Portland, OR
"Albert" '82 VanaFox I4 Riviera