ju$t how much do you want good read brake$? Back when I did a little drag
racing with a front engine drag$ter, all it had wa$ rear brake$. And it was
hard to stop, even with a chute, and a$ it was ineffective at about 75 MPH
$o we $pend a lot of time  re$erching brake solution$. We found a company
out of Atlanta called "Friction Technologies". All they did wa$ brake
$y$tem$ of one type or another, Aircraft, racing car$, trucks, and
motorcycle'$ of all sort$. After talking to their tech department, we chose
a "$linterd Iron rear brake $hoe, with a (their word$) "$oft drum"! The drum
being the major throw away wear item. Anyway for $250.00 (1960'$ dollar$)
all up, they took our core$ ($hoe$, backing plate$, and drum$) and preformed
their magic. When the part$ came back they had, relined the our $hoe core$
with their formula riveted "$lintered Iron" lining$, and  fitted them to our
drum$ with their $pecial fiction $urface, and $upplied a full hardware kit
including high heat $pring$. They had even Powder Coated everything a real
bright red. These brake$ really worked, the more heat build up the better!
Bad thing wa$, on a front engine car like that, the brake backing plate$ are
4 inche$ from you leg$. Believe me by the time you got to the turn off road,
you were ready to get out!

One thing, just making the shoes fit the drums, makes a very great
difference, that and proper adjustment.

Note: If you do go to any metallic type break friction system, be sure and
up grade your fluid to handle the heat build up. Be sure and match your
rubber parts to the fluid you use! $$$$$$$$$$$$ Another approach would be to
"slow down", Cletus .

Now days Carbon Fiber is the way to go!

Howard