Maybe what work$ without fu$$ and $ave$ your a$$ i$ worth the $$$$?  

Chris.

Wy$łane z iPhone'a

Dnia Oct 6, 2014 o godz. 17:55 raceingcajun <raceingcajun@COMMUNICOMM.COM> napisał(a):

> ju$t how much do you want good read brake$? Back when I did a little drag
> racing with a front engine drag$ter, all it had wa$ rear brake$. And it was
> hard to stop, even with a chute, and a$ it was ineffective at about 75 MPH
> $o we $pend a lot of time  re$erching brake solution$. We found a company
> out of Atlanta called "Friction Technologies". All they did wa$ brake
> $y$tem$ of one type or another, Aircraft, racing car$, trucks, and
> motorcycle'$ of all sort$. After talking to their tech department, we chose
> a "$linterd Iron rear brake $hoe, with a (their word$) "$oft drum"! The drum
> being the major throw away wear item. Anyway for $250.00 (1960'$ dollar$)
> all up, they took our core$ ($hoe$, backing plate$, and drum$) and preformed
> their magic. When the part$ came back they had, relined the our $hoe core$
> with their formula riveted "$lintered Iron" lining$, and  fitted them to our
> drum$ with their $pecial fiction $urface, and $upplied a full hardware kit
> including high heat $pring$. They had even Powder Coated everything a real
> bright red. These brake$ really worked, the more heat build up the better!
> Bad thing wa$, on a front engine car like that, the brake backing plate$ are
> 4 inche$ from you leg$. Believe me by the time you got to the turn off road,
> you were ready to get out!
> 
> One thing, just making the shoes fit the drums, makes a very great
> difference, that and proper adjustment.
> 
> Note: If you do go to any metallic type break friction system, be sure and
> up grade your fluid to handle the heat build up. Be sure and match your
> rubber parts to the fluid you use! $$$$$$$$$$$$ Another approach would be to
> "slow down", Cletus .
> 
> 
> Now days Carbon Fiber is the way to go!
> 
> Howard