To replace the cable, remove the instrument cluster to access the
securing clamp on the lever end of things. It might also help to pull
the lever knobs (move to center and grasp behind the knob to pull off)
and the control plate. Then remove the lower dash panel/floor heat
director. The cable simply goes through a grommet and down to the heater
valve. Once detached on the lever end it is much easier to disconnect at
the valve end. I have read of a better (more robust?) heater valve that
fits and works well, although quality German-made OE-style valves seem
to last a long time. Avoid anything Meyle as these Chinese-made valves
have a high failure rate.

On 10/10/2014 7:26 AM, Ryan Perry wrote:
> I have a cable on the way after the last one broke trying to move the
> less than adequate replacement valve that never fully worked, was stiff
> to turn (why my wire broke) and leaked within 100 miles.
>
> So, back at it...Anyone know of any info on replacing the cable? Or
> perhaps tips when doing it on setting it up right? Seems real tight
> under there to be routing wires around and whatnot.
>
> With this new valve it was either feast or famine. I have installed the
> shut off valve in the cab and that is great for summer/winter but not
> dialing in the heat when road tripping.
>
> I am redoing my expansion tank and flushing coolant so going to tackle
> this and see if I can get the valve to finally work where I can adjust
> the temperature from the adjustment lever.