Be careful pulling those heater sliding knobs. Grasp behind the head on the flat stem with pliers. Don't pull on the head - it will come off. These parts are NLA as far as I know. BTDT

Steve
87 Syncro GL

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 10, 2014, at 11:33 AM, Karl <tdiguru@WESTYVENTURES.COM> wrote:

> To replace the cable, remove the instrument cluster to access the
> securing clamp on the lever end of things. It might also help to pull
> the lever knobs (move to center and grasp behind the knob to pull off)
> and the control plate. Then remove the lower dash panel/floor heat
> director. The cable simply goes through a grommet and down to the heater
> valve. Once detached on the lever end it is much easier to disconnect at
> the valve end. I have read of a better (more robust?) heater valve that
> fits and works well, although quality German-made OE-style valves seem
> to last a long time. Avoid anything Meyle as these Chinese-made valves
> have a high failure rate.
> 
> On 10/10/2014 7:26 AM, Ryan Perry wrote:
>> I have a cable on the way after the last one broke trying to move the
>> less than adequate replacement valve that never fully worked, was stiff
>> to turn (why my wire broke) and leaked within 100 miles.
>> 
>> So, back at it...Anyone know of any info on replacing the cable? Or
>> perhaps tips when doing it on setting it up right? Seems real tight
>> under there to be routing wires around and whatnot.
>> 
>> With this new valve it was either feast or famine. I have installed the
>> shut off valve in the cab and that is great for summer/winter but not
>> dialing in the heat when road tripping.
>> 
>> I am redoing my expansion tank and flushing coolant so going to tackle
>> this and see if I can get the valve to finally work where I can adjust
>> the temperature from the adjustment lever.