Yes, those are the parts. It does not matter about the thickness of the washer that you weld onto the frame of the car. All the adjustment takes place on either side of those washers. Just take a look at the way the original is constructed and you'll see what I mean. The whole rig can move in or out is needed. The design. compensates for the thickness of the metal and The position of the metal on either side or both sides of the body material. Nothing to worry about thereas long as you get an alignment when you're done.

Jim

> On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:12 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have ordered from T3. Very quick shipping.
> Are these the parts you refer to?
> 
> http://www.t3technique.com/suspension-bushings/powerflex-suspension-bushings/radius-rod-bushings/
> 
> It looks to me like the parts would still require that the hole in sub
> frame not be worn out but I could be wrong.
> 
> The washer idea is a good one but again I'd be curious as to how
> washer thickness affects position of parts. A large enough washer
> would be relatively thick?
> 
>> On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> In all this discussion on radius rods, I think that welding in washers is
>> the way to go BUT you should take a look at the radius rod bushing kits I
>> installed that come from T3 Techniques. Instead of having just two dished
>> steel washers that can let the rod slip around in the hole, they have a
>> two-piece machined aluminum part that looks like it would do a much more
>> effective job of holding the rod in place, even if the hole was a bit
>> compromised. And then, of course, you get the excellent properties of the
>> poly bushing itself.
>> 
>> I am going from memory here from an install over a year ago, but I recall
>> thinking at the time that they could keep someone from having to weld
>> washers in.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Neil n
> 
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