Neil, it looks like you either shaped a piece of metal and cut out the old
worn part, or welded it in on top of the old part. This should work just
fine. The washer technique would yield the same result--new metal for the
hole. The fact that the new part if thicker than or offset to the original
body metal can easily be compensated for by repositioning the washers and
nuts on the threaded end of the rod. I may be commenting on two different
posts here, but they are at least on the same topic.

Jim

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 1/20/15, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >       The WasherThickness Won't Cause a Prob' ~ Just need to be sure
> that Washer
> > ID Matches the OD
> >
> > of the Step on the RubberBush' or the Alum'Bush if you use T3 ~
>
> Maybe I missed a detail in a post here or it wasn't made, or I'm just
> thick in the head, (LOL) but I'm assuming the washer in question would
> be welded to face of subframe as per repair I did. Image:
>
> https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleFront.jpg
>
> (my welding has improved some since then.   ha ha.)
>
> Are Miguel et al talking about welding a washer, or part of a washer,
> to ID of hole at frame?
>