I have been using the yellow and are quite happy with them. The T3 kit includes an aluminum flange to guide the bushings. You can be creative and use  3 or 4 flat head screws to keep the aluminum flange in place and forgo the weld repair. 

A good welder may be able to build up the hole and fit it around the T3 flange or a new front bushing. I have also cut out the mess and welded in 1-1/4" washers.  You can also weld a washer on to what is there and add an equal thickness spacer to the bushing sleeve to maintain the proper compression.  

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Miguel Pacheco
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 11:33 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Radius Rod Landing on Frame

So there are two offerings from T3. A purple and a yellow radius rod bushing kit. I'm not looking to color coordinate or any cool factor. I'm interested to know which works best with the washer repair. Gracias

*Miguel*

*The free soul is rare, but you know it when you see it- basically because you feel good, very good, when you are near or with them. *
*- Charles Bukowski, Tales of Ordinary*

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 2:11 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 1/20/15, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Neil, it looks like you .... welded it in on top of the old part.
>
> Hi Jim. Yes. This is what I did. I welded a new piece of plate to face 
> of frame.
>
> > The washer technique would yield the same result--new metal for the 
> > hole. The fact that the new part if thicker than or offset to the
> original
> > body metal can easily be compensated for by repositioning the 
> > washers and nuts on the threaded end of the rod.
>
> For sure. Yes. Thanks. If we're talking about the castor setting, I 
> understood that adding new metal plate to frame face wouldn't cause an 
> issue in that regard.
>
> This is not a great image:
>
> https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleBack.jpg
>
> but it shows a new bushing installed to the frame I repaired. The 
> black arrow points to lip of the bushing which is not sitting flush to 
> frame face.
>
> Granted this was my first time doing a radius rod bushing job but I 
> assumed that in the case of an un-repaired OEM thickness frame, the 
> bushing lip in frame hole ID should sit flush to face at other side of 
> frame. It appeared to me that adding new metal plate to frame face 
> would position the bushing so that the bushing lip in hole ID wasn't 
> flush to frame face.
>
> Sorry for all the writing I'm doing but it is well intended.   :)
>
>
> >
> > On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> On 1/20/15, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> >       The WasherThickness Won't Cause a Prob' ~ Just need to be 
> >> > sure
> >> that Washer
> >> > ID Matches the OD
> >> >
> >> > of the Step on the RubberBush' or the Alum'Bush if you use T3 ~
> >>
> >> Maybe I missed a detail in a post here or it wasn't made, or I'm 
> >> just thick in the head, (LOL) but I'm assuming the washer in 
> >> question would be welded to face of subframe as per repair I did. Image:
> >>
> >> https://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/RadiusArmHoleFront.jpg
> >>
> >> (my welding has improved some since then.   ha ha.)
> >>
> >> Are Miguel et al talking about welding a washer, or part of a 
> >> washer, to ID of hole at frame?
> >>
> >
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
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