I guess I''m a little confused. My pulley has two marks - one is the "V"
mark for 5 degree advance, the other is a "U" shaped mark for TDC.  I used
the "U" mark to adjust the valves on what I  am pretty sure is  cylinder
#1. It is taken care of.  The next cylinder I have to deal with is the
right rear  - passenger side, towards rear of car. How many turns from TDC
on #1 to get to TDC on that rear cylinder. And what is the cylinder #?

As I recall -  and its been a long time -  a four-stroke cycle engine moves
the piston up cylinder to top dead center twice in each cycle. I am trying
to arrive at the one with both valves closed for the ignition event on that
rear cylinder.

Thanks,

John
 On Feb 12, 2015 4:45 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Remove the distributor cap and use the TDC mark on the pulley. Get
> cylinder #1 set up. Then turn engine clockwise 180 degree. You are set for
> cylinder #4. Another 180 and cylinder #3, one more 180 and you will finish
> with cylinder #2.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:04 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement
>
> Well, the oil cooler seal is done and  the oil filter is in place. But it
> wasn't without problems. First the internal pipe wrench I was using to
> remove the oil filter mounting pipe broke inside the pipe.  I ordered
> another but had to wait thru the weekend. I borrowed transportation and
> bought another internal pipe wernch from Grainger - only the size I needed
> only  came in a kit of four. Cost me 50 bucks, but I got it. When I went to
> thghten the pipe, the new internal pipe wrench would not grab into the pipe
> and tighten it. The pipe was hardened steel, an the tool would not work.
> Searched back through emails from the list and found a reference to
> THESAMBA and using a torx tool driven into the pipe to get a gripe. Back to
> Grainger. Returned the pipe wrench set, but Grainger only had the Totx T55
> in a set  - $50 again, that  I didn't want to spend. Next I drove the
> borrowed car to Advance Auto  and they had what I needed  - a single Torx
> T55. Home again. Screwed the pipe nipple in by hand, then drove the Torx
> T55 in the pipe - and low and  behold if it didn't go right in to the
> shoulder of the Torx tool. Another problem to deal with - how to get it
> out? First things first, I thought. The Torx tool did bite sufficiently was
> able to torque the pipe  nipple to proper torque. The came the trial of
> removing the Torx tool. Pull, tug, strain  - a little gap appeared,and a
> screwdriver finished the job. Then for the nut to hold the pipe in place.
> Would you believe  - the socket would not fit. Size was right  - 27 mm -
> but the depth was not. The race was on to get back to Advance Auto for 27
> mm deep socket. Once home the nut was torgued, the surfaces cleaned and the
> filter put on. Tools were put away, lights turned out, and I gave it up for
> the night. Tomorrow it gets oil. But the valves need to be adjusted first.
> I the replacement pushrods tubes in place, the replacement rods in, and
> have loosened the adusting screws. Tomorrow they get reseated.
>
> Question: whats the best way to identify top dead center on each cylinder
> for valve adjustment purposes?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>