Firing order is 1, 4, 3, 2. If you turn it backwards you will get 1,2,3,4. #1 is right front and #2 is right rear. So to go from #1 to #2 turn the crank pulley 180 degrees counter clockwise. The rotor on the distributor will point to the #2 spark plug wire. 

Dennis
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 8:59 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement

I guess I''m a little confused. My pulley has two marks - one is the "V"
mark for 5 degree advance, the other is a "U" shaped mark for TDC.  I used the "U" mark to adjust the valves on what I  am pretty sure is  cylinder #1. It is taken care of.  The next cylinder I have to deal with is the right rear  - passenger side, towards rear of car. How many turns from TDC on #1 to get to TDC on that rear cylinder. And what is the cylinder #?

As I recall -  and its been a long time -  a four-stroke cycle engine moves the piston up cylinder to top dead center twice in each cycle. I am trying to arrive at the one with both valves closed for the ignition event on that rear cylinder.

Thanks,

John
 On Feb 12, 2015 4:45 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Remove the distributor cap and use the TDC mark on the pulley. Get 
> cylinder #1 set up. Then turn engine clockwise 180 degree. You are set 
> for cylinder #4. Another 180 and cylinder #3, one more 180 and you 
> will finish with cylinder #2.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On 
> Behalf Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:04 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: 2.1 L Oil cooler seal and pushrod tube replacement
>
> Well, the oil cooler seal is done and  the oil filter is in place. But 
> it wasn't without problems. First the internal pipe wrench I was using 
> to remove the oil filter mounting pipe broke inside the pipe.  I 
> ordered another but had to wait thru the weekend. I borrowed 
> transportation and bought another internal pipe wernch from Grainger - 
> only the size I needed only  came in a kit of four. Cost me 50 bucks, 
> but I got it. When I went to thghten the pipe, the new internal pipe 
> wrench would not grab into the pipe and tighten it. The pipe was hardened steel, an the tool would not work.
> Searched back through emails from the list and found a reference to 
> THESAMBA and using a torx tool driven into the pipe to get a gripe. 
> Back to Grainger. Returned the pipe wrench set, but Grainger only had 
> the Totx T55 in a set  - $50 again, that  I didn't want to spend. Next 
> I drove the borrowed car to Advance Auto  and they had what I needed  
> - a single Torx T55. Home again. Screwed the pipe nipple in by hand, 
> then drove the Torx
> T55 in the pipe - and low and  behold if it didn't go right in to the 
> shoulder of the Torx tool. Another problem to deal with - how to get 
> it out? First things first, I thought. The Torx tool did bite 
> sufficiently was able to torque the pipe  nipple to proper torque. The 
> came the trial of removing the Torx tool. Pull, tug, strain  - a 
> little gap appeared,and a screwdriver finished the job. Then for the nut to hold the pipe in place.
> Would you believe  - the socket would not fit. Size was right  - 27 mm 
> - but the depth was not. The race was on to get back to Advance Auto 
> for 27 mm deep socket. Once home the nut was torgued, the surfaces 
> cleaned and the filter put on. Tools were put away, lights turned out, 
> and I gave it up for the night. Tomorrow it gets oil. But the valves need to be adjusted first.
> I the replacement pushrods tubes in place, the replacement rods in, 
> and have loosened the adusting screws. Tomorrow they get reseated.
>
> Question: whats the best way to identify top dead center on each 
> cylinder for valve adjustment purposes?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>