Dunno if it is possible with the WBX sensors but a thought:   Perhaps
replace the sensor with a gauge for pressure?  Or a T-fitting, like I use
on my inline VW motor... one that allows me to have the warning light
function and the OP pressure instrument?   I also installed an oil
temperature gauge....I think I put that at oil filter flange....

  Both of those gauges are very informative....I monitor those during
extreme driving conditions...I would not feel comfortable depending on just
the warnings from factory in any VW motor (that I can afford) when
well-installed dependable instrument can show you the actual temperature
and pressure and the trends in (almost) real time...

   As an example of the peace of mind given by actually knowing what is
going on with the motor's insides.......On my recent trip back from the
desert SW I encountered a huge traffic jamb on Cajon Pass, leaving San
Bernardino....Almost two hours of stop and go, uphill amidst a crowd of
huge big rigs and very aggressive California drivers, with no off ramps and
almost no chance of lane changes, driving my 84 vanagon loaded at
4700lbs....Sitting there amongst all that I was glad to KNOW that nothing
much was bothering the old ABA jetta motor...OP stayed at 23lbs during idle
and the temp confirmed the motor was cooling just fine...

Better, in my opinion, than just:  "Oil pressure?...Yes" that you get from
the stock set up....

On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 9:19 AM, Kevin Duvernay <kduvey@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks guys. How do I tell if my sensor is an aftermarket one or one of the
> genuine resigned ones?
>
>  I do have a spare oil cooler O ring kicking around somewhere, I'll dig it
> out. Good tip on the PB blaster. I snapped a stud replacing the other
> header... (although the 2/4 header hardware looks much less corroded and
> I've already broke 3 of the 4 nuts loose)
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 11:12 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >                 Kevin
> >
> >         Not that it is necessary, but I'll put a 2nd on what DH & KW have
> > said & Add that if
> >
> > You have not already done so, You should Soak All the Nuts&Bolts that you
> > are going to
> >
> > be removing on this project with PBBlaster &Or Zep45 Today & then
> HeatItUp
> > ToOp'Temp
> >
> > &Then SoakAgain ~
> >
> >         &Also ~ The NextTime You change Your Oil, Save Yourself some
> > UnnecessarilySpent
> >
> >  $s & use Valvoline FullSynthetic Instead ~
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/
> >
> >         Redline is a GreatOil as are RoyalPurple & Ams but WayOverPriced
> &
> > a Valvo' F'S'Oil
> >
> > will DoTheJob JustAsWell ~
> >
> >         There are Other Good F'S'Oils out there but I'm just fond of
> > Valvo' ~
> >
> >                                                         ORR ~ DeanB
> >
> >
> > On 5 Mar , 2015, at 8:50 AM, Kevin Duvernay wrote:
> >
> > > I'm swapping out my motor mounts tomorrow. While I'm there I'm also
> going
> > > to replace the #2/4 header. If that goes smoothly, I've also got a new
> > > water pump along with all new coolant pipes/gaskets and hoses (its
> > > basically the last bits of my complete cooling system overhaul!)
> > >
> > > Anyways, I figured while I'm there doing all this I minus well toss in
> a
> > > new high pressure oil sender (the grey one, .9 bar). What I'm wondering
> > is,
> > > is it possible to do this without loosing too much oil? I JUST changed
> > the
> > > oil out to some really expensive Redline synthetic stuff, would hate to
> > > waste any of it...
> > >
> > > Also, anything else I should address while I'm back there?
> > >
> > > Kevin
> >
> >
>