Rust converters are stop gaps and make you feel warm and fuzzy. When there is surface rust that's one thing , but when there is heavy scale then the rust is in the metal and needs to replaced with solid material. 
           I have had scaly metal ground down and "miracle coated " to have it come back within a year. I have seen tons of people use rust converters and not properly follow procedures as to leaving scaly metal and proper cure time and allowing  out gassing  before topcoat. 
       Really in my opinion ,if you are not going to replace metal , then just  prime over the top , Bondo it and paint it because in the end it's all the same result. . 

                      Stacy 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2015, at 3:58 PM, David Bjorkman <ddbjorkman@VERIZON.NET> wrote:
> 
> Speaking of rust buckets, anyone have any faith in rust converters/stoppers/paint/ etc.?  I had the bottom of the Westy stripped down naked, cleaned and epoxy painted and a few years later I have some rust in places I don't want it.  I live just north of Boston and the road salt is particularly nasty.  http://www.nhoilundercoating.com/ says they have a rustoration fix and I would like to know if anyone has thoughts or experience with this and/or this kind of product.
> 
> Dave B.
> 
> On 0
> 
> 4/25/15, Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> 
> It’s a rust bucket, but someone who can weld panels can get a good deal. Be prepared for this: http://www.rustbuster.nl/Bus_zijpaneel/index1.htm If you set your browser to 200% magnification you can also see rust at the bottom of the slider and other places. Lots of patch welding and panel clips needed, but doable for the serious restorer with a MIG welder and the time. 
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve done similar work on MGBs, and it’s kind of fun.
> 
> 
> 
> Not for the faint hearted.
> 
> 
> 
> Stuart