The diesel should run pretty cool, in fact m 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2015, at 3:13 PM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
> 
> OK guys just wanted to update you all on what is up with the 1.9l TD
> conversion.  Got it all back together last week but then the timing was off
> and I didn't have the tool to set it properly (a whole different story) so
> I had to order one.  Fast forward to Tuesday of this week, set the timing
> back to where it was (.90mm lift) and the van is purring like a rather
> large kitten!  Running great and the pesky oil light is off.  Driving it
> around as a test drive, my coolant temp gauge is reading around 3/4 hot
> however reading the temps with an infrared heat gun it isn't even hot at
> the hose that goes to the head at that point.  I let it run last night to
> get hot enough for the radiator fan to come on and when it did the gauge is
> almost reading full hot.  I think it is just not calibrated to the sender
> that came with the engine.  I wish you could adjust the gauge somehow, but
> as far as I know there isn't a way to do that.  My new normal is 3/4 hot.
> I pulled that relay for the blinking light out because the reservoir for
> the conversion doesn't have a level sender in it.
> 
> Driving around, it seems to have power on par with a 1.9l waterboxer with
> more low end torque.  I can take off in 2nd gear with my unmodified
> waterboxer transmission and that actually feels better than starting in 1st
> which is almost a creeper gear now.  At 50 mph it is winding up, but not as
> bad as the 1.6l NA diesel does at that speed.  I haven't really driven much
> faster yet as I am still breaking the engine in at this point.
> 
> It is nice to hear that turbo working which sounds like a hair dryer right
> now.  I need to do some sound deadening to quiet things up.
> 
> So, if I hadn't had to deal with that stuck valve in the oil filter flange
> this would have not been a bad experience.  It is a pretty easy conversion
> to do and now that I have done one, I could do the next one in probably
> 10-15 hours (as long as there are no gotcha from the engine builders
> side).
> 
> I still haven't spoken with the conversion supplier yet about reimbursing
> me for my time.  I'll let you know how that goes (like a lead balloon most
> likely).
> 
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
> 
> On Thu, May 21, 2015 at 5:58 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Maybe you can post some pictures of that valve. I don’t have a lot of
>> experience on the 1.9TD but the on the other in line 4 cylinder engines the
>> valve I am aware of is the oil filter bypass valve. This is a major
>> difference between factory filters for the Waterboxers as compared to the
>> inline engines. The Waterboxers need the bypass in the filter whereas the
>> inline motors have it in the filter flange. Looking at the filter the oil
>> flows into on the outside and then enters the engine through the center
>> pipe. If oil is going through the outside of the filter flange into the
>> engine then the filter is bypassed.
>> 
>> Dennis
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>> Of kenneth wilford (Van-Again)
>> Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2015 8:23 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: Advice on TD engine problem
>> 
>> Progress!!  Put the engine back together yesterday, and installed the oil
>> filter flange without the check valve.  Just by spinning the engine over
>> with the starter, I got oil pressure at the head in about 10 seconds!
>> Today I have to bleed the coolant system (again) and then it should be
>> ready to run.  I am leaving an oil pressure gauge installed right now just
>> to be able to see what is going on.  I also spoke with Chris at Foreign
>> Auto Supply in Maine.  They also sell a TD conversion for the Vanagon.  I
>> asked them specifically about the check valve in the oil filter flange.
>> They say that they always remove it on the diesel engines they install.
>> It is for the gas engines and that the diesels don't need it.  That is good
>> enough for me.  This one little part has caused me more pain and delay than
>> I would like to think about.  Just not sure why the engine supplier didn't
>> know about this issue.
>> 
>> Response from Overland so far has been to overnight me the bare essentials
>> to put this thing back together.  I sent them pictures of one of the cam
>> bearing caps that looked galled to me and they said it was fine and I
>> didn't need a new head.  After cleaning it up, it really isn't that bad so
>> I am not going to make a big deal about it since it is their warranty.
>> After everything is said and done, I am going to petition for some store
>> credit for all of my extra time.
>> 
>> Ken
>> 
>> On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:39 PM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) <
>> kenwilfy@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> So today I think I have finally gotten to the heart of the matter with
>>> this engine.  I tried to spin the oil pump to get oil pressure coming
>>> out of block but no oil would come out.  Finally I traced the oil
>>> passage down through the block to the filter flange itself.  I had
>>> already taken this off once and inspected it but not knowing how the
>>> oil system was supposed to work, I looked down this one passage and
>>> saw what I thought was a plug to block it off and didn't think
>>> anything of it since all of the other passages were unblocked.  What I
>>> think I understand now is that this one passage that goes from the
>>> filter flange up into the block and then to the head is a check valve?
>>> I am assuming that once you build up enough oil pressure it will open
>> this valve and allow oil to travel up to the head.
>>> The valve would prevent oil from leaking down when you turn off the
>>> engine.  I am thinking this valve is malfunctioning and not letting
>>> any oil come through.  I pulled the oil pressure sensor that is above
>>> this passage and blew into it and air came right out of the block no
>> problem.  So the
>>> passage from the filter flange to the head is fine.   It just seems that
>>> this check valve is stuck or blocked for some reason.  It looks like
>>> it can be removed with a torx tool so I may try to remove it and see
>>> what is going on in there.
>>> 
>>> I did pull the cam caps as Skipper suggested.  They looked OK until I
>>> got to cap number 4 and then I got concerned.  The others had light
>>> lines on them, but number 4 is really scored.  I am going to try to
>>> get a new head from the rebuilder to replace this one.
>>> 
>>> I sent them an email.  I will let you know what their response is.
>>> 
>>> Ken
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 11:11 PM, Ben <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I'm afraid Karl hit this right on the money. One particular situation
>>>> stuck in my memory. They sold a transmission to a local shop. When
>>>> the unit felt too light, the mechanic removed from the shipping
>>>> pallet to check why that was. The transmission case was completely
>> empty.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> BenT
>>>> 
>>>> sent from my electronic leash
>>>> 
>>>>> On May 14, 2015, at 5:48 PM, Karl Mullendore
>>>>> <tdiguru@WESTYVENTURES.COM>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unfortunately this is par for the course with Overland/Eurospec.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ken Wilford
>>> John 3:16
>>> www.vanagain.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Thanks,
>> Ken Wilford
>> John 3:16
>> www.vanagain.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Thanks,
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com