It's times like this I wish I lived closer to other listees so I could pop over! �David I would even bring your favourite beer. �Maybe I could trade you for a week at our Lake of the Woods cottage instead!?

I can do better than describe it - I will make a video tonight after work and post it on that damn FB site.

On a side note, now that I've searched for that mould product Neil recommended from Home Depot, the product now appears as an advertisement in my FB news feed. �Alongside ads for Viagara and balding therapies.

Jeff

----------------------------------------
> Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2015 00:48:56 -0400
> From: dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET
> Subject: Re: Funky temp gauge - update
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
> At 11:49 PM 6/7/2015, Jeff Palmer wrote:
>>Haha you are clearly smarter than me and
>>unfortunately smarter than my mechanic too :)
>
> Unfortunately it's possible.
>
>
>>The reason I got the new VR last year was
>>because at approximately the same time my gas
>>gauge would only go to about 95% full even when
>>the tank was full, and the temp gauge began to
>>normally read just a smidgen below normal (generally ran at the LED level).
>
> That's a reasonable indication, but a couple
> minutes with a voltmeter will nail it and tell
> you if it's bad regulator, baad panel supply, bad
> panel ground -- no, sorry; panel ground affects
> the blinker but not either of the gauges proper.
>
>
>>The LED light was always finicky ever since I
>>bought the van 20 years ago. When it was humid,
>>it would flash for extended periods. Sometimes
>>if I let it flash for five seconds before
>>starting it would stop flashing. When dry it was fine.
>
> Yes, the internal capacitor is leaky and
> eventually it will never stop flashing; because
> it always flashes at power-on. It's supposed to
> continue for two or three seconds any time it starts.
>
>
>>Then last fall it kept flashing and wouldn’t
>>stop. Not long after the temp needle began to peg immediately at startup.
>
> Too far away now to know what "immediately at
> startup" means. As I said, a literally
> second-by-second description is needed to
> distinguish between gauge behavior and controller
> behavior. The light and the gauge are completely
> independent of each other. One heats up more
> when more current flows through it, and the other
> monitors the voltage at the sender terminal and
> starts flashing when the voltage falls below a
> certain point. The light will start to flash any
> time the sender line is looking at 35 ohms or
> less to ground. 35 ohms is also the value that
> should put the gauge right on the edge of overheat.
>
> I'm guessing you have a 1.9l van and that your
> level controller is tall, not cubical, is that correct?
>
> Once again, describe minutely the behavior of
> blinker and gauge starting when you turn the key on from cold.
>
> d