Yes on the ports. This rebuilder has 42 years experience with VW engines,
and usually doesn't miss a trick. But this one is being a pain because it
was severely overheated. Probably headed for imminent total failure -
broken crankshaft, rod through the block, something like that. Thanks to
you and others for the head and valve info. Will get'ter done!

John
On Jun 11, 2015 1:29 AM, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

>  Did anyone notice the 'ports' in the non-flywheel end of the piston
> barrel area of the block ?
>
> one is exposed when the water pump is removed..
> the other is cover with a coolant pipe/flange.
>
> Use some extraction device through those holes.
> Mandatory to heat the piston some .....
>  not 'tons' ..just some, with oxy-accetylene torch.
>
> 'Clever' of VW to make it so you have to use your extraction tool for both
> piston pins through that one hole..
> ( subaru has a hole on each si, fore and aft,  conveniently in their
> opposed 4 engines )
>
> People have used threaded rod .
> there are exanadable internal grabber tools .( like to grab and extract a
> oil pressure relief piston say )
>
> A good machine shop that does whole engine rebuilds should have some of
> those extractor tools.
>
> On 6/10/2015 12:10 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> In an earlier post I told of someone running my engine hot. Result: gotta
> have the engine rebuilt. Decided to go all the way with it - all new
> everything. Pushrods were bent indicating stuck valves from over heating.
> Both heads were cracked beyond any repair so all new AMC heads with new
> everything are going back on.
>
> Right now removal of two piston pins is a problem.  Any suggestions on
> that. The rebuilder is very good, but this one has him up a stump. I'm sure
> he will eventually succeed but any suggestions might be of benefit to speed
> matters along.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>
>
>