Suggest you do the 'standard booster function' test, in this case.

On 7/21/2015 10:56 PM, Neil N wrote:
> Thanks Scott. Good tip on solid pedal, engine not running.
> With engine running, my brake pedal almost feels slightly mushy in comparison.
>
>> Be sure to pause between storkes  at 'pedal up' for a few seconds.
> also a good tip. Easy to over look! Something that can't be done when using
> a pressure bleeder??
>
>> I find the good old fashioned 'clear hose in a bottle of BF' manual
> I assume you mean the old fashioned 'push the pedal ... etc' method?
>
> Of note, I found it interesting that as I held my 7mm wrench in place
> on the passenger side caliper upper bleed bolt, (i.e. I was pushing
> slightly downward on wrench),
> a HUGE stream of bubbles would flow down the hose to the bottle full of BF.
> That bleeder screw feels like it has a LOT of play at threads. i.e.
> the same bleeder screw
> at driver side does not. Like it fees normal.
>
> This must be due to finer points of physics and chemistry, neither of
> which I'm closely acquainted with, ha ha, but how can air be drawn
> into the bleeder screw where it threads into the calpier then show up
> as bubbles in the bleeder hose?
>
> Neil.
>
> On 7/22/15, SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott ) <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>> fwiw..
>> I find the good old fashioned 'clear hose in a bottle of BF' manual
>> methods works quite well.
>>
>> what I like about it is ..
>> two main things ..you can watch for bubbles..either for bubbles to work
>> their way out and then stop ..
>> or continuous tiny bubbles like the MC is pumping in air ..
>>
>> the other reason ...s ..huge advantage ..you can just plain 'Feel' if
>> it's pumping well or not.
>>
>> I start bleeding  at one corner of the van ..
>> work my way around wheel by wheel ..
>> then do the first wheel again.
>> Then feel for a good firm pedal ( engine not running )
> --
> Neil n
>
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