no bleeding needed..
as it is An Air Bleed System in itself..
the idea is ...any air that is in the engine ( like say when initially
filling coolant )  ...the air will rise to that pipe ..where it
eventually gets back to the coolant pressure bottle.

there are metal and plastic versions of that pipe.
Whatever you can do to repair it............ if the pipe itself is
broken or has a hole in it.

or cut and splice hoses onto it until you can get a good used one.

Generally ...epoxy's don't work well on plastics.. ( though I'm running
a repair like that on a metal heater pipe on a Mercedes sedan ..right on
the engine ...good for over a year now. )

the best one I have found is Marine Tex.
that is one gnarly two part epoxy .
whether it will stick well to VW plastic , if that's what you
need....just have to give it a try.

On 9/11/2015 6:45 AM, Andrew R. wrote:
> I have a slight leak at one of the junctions in the coolant line that runs
> along the top perimeter of the engine compartment.  Intent is to pull the
> bad hose clamp and reclamp as a first attempt.
>
> The leak as at the junction of this:
> http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1462_667/coolant-tube.html
>
> and the driver's head at cylinder #4:
> http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_659_673/cooling-hose-comes-off-cyl-4-see-description.html
>
> My question is does the system need to be bled after working on this
> system?  I'm worried the coolant tube could be cracked and I'll need to
> replace the entire perimeter tube with it's multiple junctions.  I saw
> Ben's Place mentioning the engine compartment system is "self bleeding".
>
> http://www.benplace.com/bleeding.htm
>
> thanks,
> Andrew
> 87 GL (2.2 engine)
>