Thanks, Dennis.

l will definitely give that a try in the morning.

John
On Sep 20, 2015 19:33, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> With a long enough extension you can easily get the socket bit into the
> bolt from underneath and tap the back of the extension to drive the bit in.
> About 18 inches will get you past the exhaust so that you can easily turn
> the screw out. Using a "wobble" extension into the bit makes it easy to get
> both those screws out.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2015 6:45 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
>
> OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way.
> Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the
> lowest one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds the
> big metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the proper 6mm
> allen wrench to fit into the hole in  the head. It appears, by way of
> inspection mirror, to have been slightly buggared on installation of the
> pump last time. This this is really tough to get when every thing is right
> and perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to get this out. Very little
> working room. I our aircraft maintenance shop in such circumstance I would
> use a fresh sharp edged allen wrench and drive it with a hammer into the
> head, then back it out. There is no room for this in this case. I'm open to
> suggestions, Volks.
>
> Thanks
>
> John
> On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> > let us know how it goes John,
> > Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be
> > really a lot 'fun' ..
> > as in insanely difficult sometimes.
> >  Fortify yourself with plenty of patience.
> >
> > that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft
> > pulley, for example.
> > those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access
> > ..( I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw
> > on the w. pump ) ...
> > and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone.
> >
> > going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex
> > head screws to use instead.
> > a 13mm hex head one won't work ..
> > but 12mm hex head ones will,  as well as a very rear bolt in that
> > thread with a 10mm hex head.
> > Way mo' easy to get out next time.
> >
> > I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads
> > of all screws going back together...
> > stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later.
> > have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling
> > those screws bare metal-to-metal.
> >
> > have fun !
> > Scott
> >
> > On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your
> > printed instructions at my side.
> >
> > John
> > On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by
> > disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet.
> > Then remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and
> > disconnect the small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush
> > out of the pipe and pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant
> > will flow out. Then remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the
> bottom of the pump.
> > This will pretty much drain the pump chamber.
> >
> > Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit.
> > You should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A
> > short 13mm socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom
> > one off. You should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to
> > pry that pipe down enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the
> > studs. You may want to replace the hose on the other side of the pulley.
> > Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to
> > the head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing
> > both of those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil
> > O-ring. Use good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects
> > to the oil cooler feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size
> > for that pipe. It is a loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and
> the fit will be perfect.
> >
> > Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the
> > heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off.
> >
> > You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket
> > screws and washers preferably with stainless.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> > <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
> >
> > I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil
> > cooler and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view
> > (picture laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted
> > driveway) what would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from
> where it sits.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
>