Scott,
Thanks for the encouragement! I think this one has me whipped. I think I am
going to have to cut the head of the bolt off with an air driven cutoff
tool, or pehaps a Dremel or Foredom tool. I have both. I've been futzing
with this all day and gotten nowhere. I think my Foredom with long shaft
and skinny chuck will get down in there.
On Sep 21, 2015 15:58, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> Really a lot of 'fun' ...down to the One Last fastener.
>
> in rock climbing the hardest move on a route is called the Crux ...
> like once you get bast the crux ..the rest is relatively not too difficult.
>
> The One Fastener ...get past this point and the rest is fairly easy.
>
> I love to unscrew stuck allen head bolts with a cold chisel and hammer ..
> and ...a long cold chisel is a pretty rare tool , don't know how/where I
> got mine ..
> sure is handy sometimes.
> and ...might not be able to get in there anyway.
>
> is the rear of the van elevated ..like on jack stands so you can get under
> there easily.
> I find it's always worth the effort to make working conditions better and
> stuff more accessible.
> So you can really get in there and root around and dig in ...and master
> the beast.
> Scott
>
> On 9/21/2015 12:52 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Scott, I'm going to try the wiggler/universal thing this morn. I think
> someone installed these extra, extra tight metal to metal with no
> anti-sieze. They were really in there. Just this one to go.
>
> John
> On Sep 21, 2015 00:25, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>> I have used the 'drive a good allen tool into the screw' method on that
>> screw..
>> on a pretty long extension ..like 14inches at least.
>>
>> also ..very important...hitting the screw sharply with a blow helps
>> considerable to 'wake up the threads' ..
>> to the degree that...
>> say you're removing a 6mm allen CV joint screw ..and you can just feel
>> that it's about to strip..the tool in the screw head.
>> You give another 10 very sharp whacks with a good drift and ball been
>> hammer.
>>
>> try to loosen the screw again...still feels like's going to strip .,
>> 10 more really sharp whacks with drift and hammer.
>>
>> eventually ...with the same amount of rotational force applied to the
>> screw..it will unscrew.
>>
>> the large pipe screws your water pump ..
>> getting 'dead on' center with a tool can be a trick ...like things are in
>> the way ..
>> I've used a wobble drive extension to compenstate the the angle before
>> ..and that can work.
>>
>> Never put screws like this in bare metal-to-metal ..
>> and never make them extra, extra tight.
>>
>> On 9/20/2015 12:44 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>
>> OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way.
>> Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the lowest
>> one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds the big
>> metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the proper 6mm allen
>> wrench to fit into the hole in  the head. It appears, by way of inspection
>> mirror, to have been slightly buggared on installation of the pump last
>> time. This this is really tough to get when every thing is right and
>> perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to get this out. Very little working
>> room. I our aircraft maintenance shop in such circumstance I would use a
>> fresh sharp edged allen wrench and drive it with a hammer into the head,
>> then back it out. There is no room for this in this case. I'm open to
>> suggestions, Volks.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> John
>> On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
>> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>
>>> let us know how it goes John,
>>> Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be
>>> really a lot 'fun' ..
>>> as in insanely difficult sometimes.
>>>  Fortify yourself with plenty of patience.
>>>
>>> that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft
>>> pulley, for example.
>>> those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access
>>> ..( I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw on
>>> the w. pump ) ...
>>> and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone.
>>>
>>> going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex
>>> head screws to use instead.
>>> a 13mm hex head one won't work ..
>>> but 12mm hex head ones will,  as well as a very rear bolt in that thread
>>> with a 10mm hex head.
>>> Way mo' easy to get out next time.
>>>
>>> I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads of
>>> all screws going back together...
>>> stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later.
>>> have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling those
>>> screws bare metal-to-metal.
>>>
>>> have fun !
>>> Scott
>>>
>>> On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>>
>>> Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your
>>> printed instructions at my side.
>>>
>>> John
>>> On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by
>>> disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet. Then
>>> remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and disconnect the
>>> small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush out of the pipe and
>>> pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant will flow out. Then
>>> remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the bottom of the pump.
>>> This will pretty much drain the pump chamber.
>>>
>>> Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit. You
>>> should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A short 13mm
>>> socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom one off. You
>>> should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to pry that pipe down
>>> enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the studs. You may want to
>>> replace the hose on the other side of the pulley.
>>> Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to the
>>> head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing both of
>>> those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil O-ring. Use
>>> good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects to the oil cooler
>>> feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size for that pipe. It is a
>>> loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and the fit will be perfect.
>>>
>>> Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the
>>> heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off.
>>>
>>> You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket screws
>>> and washers preferably with stainless.
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf
>>> Of John Rodgers
>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
>>>
>>> I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil cooler
>>> and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view (picture
>>> laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted driveway) what
>>> would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from where it sits.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>