that's a great idea John..
cut the head of the screw off.
that'll work !

you'll have to get another screw ...very small penalty to pay.
and the remaining stud can just stay in the water pump which just goes
into metal recycling anyway.l
Scott

On 9/21/2015 11:32 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Scott,
> Thanks for the encouragement! I think this one has me whipped. I think I am
> going to have to cut the head of the bolt off with an air driven cutoff
> tool, or pehaps a Dremel or Foredom tool. I have both. I've been futzing
> with this all day and gotten nowhere. I think my Foredom with long shaft
> and skinny chuck will get down in there.
> On Sep 21, 2015 15:58, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>> Really a lot of 'fun' ...down to the One Last fastener.
>>
>> in rock climbing the hardest move on a route is called the Crux ...
>> like once you get bast the crux ..the rest is relatively not too difficult.
>>
>> The One Fastener ...get past this point and the rest is fairly easy.
>>
>> I love to unscrew stuck allen head bolts with a cold chisel and hammer ..
>> and ...a long cold chisel is a pretty rare tool , don't know how/where I
>> got mine ..
>> sure is handy sometimes.
>> and ...might not be able to get in there anyway.
>>
>> is the rear of the van elevated ..like on jack stands so you can get under
>> there easily.
>> I find it's always worth the effort to make working conditions better and
>> stuff more accessible.
>> So you can really get in there and root around and dig in ...and master
>> the beast.
>> Scott
>>
>> On 9/21/2015 12:52 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>
>> Scott, I'm going to try the wiggler/universal thing this morn. I think
>> someone installed these extra, extra tight metal to metal with no
>> anti-sieze. They were really in there. Just this one to go.
>>
>> John
>> On Sep 21, 2015 00:25, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
>> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have used the 'drive a good allen tool into the screw' method on that
>>> screw..
>>> on a pretty long extension ..like 14inches at least.
>>>
>>> also ..very important...hitting the screw sharply with a blow helps
>>> considerable to 'wake up the threads' ..
>>> to the degree that...
>>> say you're removing a 6mm allen CV joint screw ..and you can just feel
>>> that it's about to strip..the tool in the screw head.
>>> You give another 10 very sharp whacks with a good drift and ball been
>>> hammer.
>>>
>>> try to loosen the screw again...still feels like's going to strip .,
>>> 10 more really sharp whacks with drift and hammer.
>>>
>>> eventually ...with the same amount of rotational force applied to the
>>> screw..it will unscrew.
>>>
>>> the large pipe screws your water pump ..
>>> getting 'dead on' center with a tool can be a trick ...like things are in
>>> the way ..
>>> I've used a wobble drive extension to compenstate the the angle before
>>> ..and that can work.
>>>
>>> Never put screws like this in bare metal-to-metal ..
>>> and never make them extra, extra tight.
>>>
>>> On 9/20/2015 12:44 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>>
>>> OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way.
>>> Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the lowest
>>> one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds the big
>>> metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the proper 6mm allen
>>> wrench to fit into the hole in  the head. It appears, by way of inspection
>>> mirror, to have been slightly buggared on installation of the pump last
>>> time. This this is really tough to get when every thing is right and
>>> perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to get this out. Very little working
>>> room. I our aircraft maintenance shop in such circumstance I would use a
>>> fresh sharp edged allen wrench and drive it with a hammer into the head,
>>> then back it out. There is no room for this in this case. I'm open to
>>> suggestions, Volks.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> John
>>> On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
>>> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> let us know how it goes John,
>>>> Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be
>>>> really a lot 'fun' ..
>>>> as in insanely difficult sometimes.
>>>>   Fortify yourself with plenty of patience.
>>>>
>>>> that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft
>>>> pulley, for example.
>>>> those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access
>>>> ..( I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw on
>>>> the w. pump ) ...
>>>> and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone.
>>>>
>>>> going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex
>>>> head screws to use instead.
>>>> a 13mm hex head one won't work ..
>>>> but 12mm hex head ones will,  as well as a very rear bolt in that thread
>>>> with a 10mm hex head.
>>>> Way mo' easy to get out next time.
>>>>
>>>> I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads of
>>>> all screws going back together...
>>>> stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later.
>>>> have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling those
>>>> screws bare metal-to-metal.
>>>>
>>>> have fun !
>>>> Scott
>>>>
>>>> On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your
>>>> printed instructions at my side.
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>> On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by
>>>> disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet. Then
>>>> remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and disconnect the
>>>> small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush out of the pipe and
>>>> pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant will flow out. Then
>>>> remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the bottom of the pump.
>>>> This will pretty much drain the pump chamber.
>>>>
>>>> Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit. You
>>>> should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A short 13mm
>>>> socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom one off. You
>>>> should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to pry that pipe down
>>>> enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the studs. You may want to
>>>> replace the hose on the other side of the pulley.
>>>> Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to the
>>>> head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing both of
>>>> those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil O-ring. Use
>>>> good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects to the oil cooler
>>>> feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size for that pipe. It is a
>>>> loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and the fit will be perfect.
>>>>
>>>> Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the
>>>> heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off.
>>>>
>>>> You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket screws
>>>> and washers preferably with stainless.
>>>>
>>>> Dennis
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf
>>>> Of John Rodgers
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM
>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>> Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
>>>>
>>>> I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil cooler
>>>> and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view (picture
>>>> laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted driveway) what
>>>> would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from where it sits.
>>>>
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>