John,
  Can you get a drill bit lined up well enough to drill the head off the
bolt?  Maybe with a right-angle drive?
Do you have a Dremel?

Larry A.

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 7:43 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have another cross over pipe in hand. Will look tomorrow to see how close
> to the pump I can cut it off with a sawsall. Will go from there.
> It looks like I can snake that pipe put of there once it's cut, and IF I
> remove the rubber hose - but can I?
>
> John
> On Sep 22, 2015 17:46, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> > I was going to suggest that ..
> > remove w. pump with pipe attached..
> > but ...it's a tight fit getting the bare pump out ...
> > haven't ever tried it, but wouldn't surprise me if it can't come out with
> > pipe attached.
> >
> > don't have to pull the entire engine ..
> > just lower the back down a good ways.
> > like up to a foot down in the back ..watch all wires, hoses, and cables
> of
> > course..that they are not pulled on .
> > Then the whole muffler and all that can come off.
> >
> > the muffler heat shield ...a 'fun' VW trick there..
> > the only way it really goes off and on ...
> > like to install it, it has to be sitting on the engine, over the muffler
> (
> > and attached to the engine cross bar bolts on the bottom if you want )
> > ....then raise engine.
> >
> > Just be very patient, and determined ..
> > good working conditions ...do things to get good access to what you're
> > working on .
> > a couple of St. Johns Wart supplementa to reduce stress ....
> > you'll get it.
> >  I would work more on getting the screw head cut off, or the screw
> > unscrewed, at this point.
> > scott
> > On 9/22/2015 12:18 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > Work, frustrating work on this problem continues. The grinding/cutoff of
> > the screw head didn't work. Space to small to get my grinding tools
> down/up
> > to the screw head.
> >
> > New question. The cross over pipe is connected by a short hose to a
> flanged
> > fitting bolted to the right hand head (as seen from the rear of the
> > vehicle). If I remove that end, and take off that hose, will I be able to
> > remove the pump the pump with pipe attached?  I could then get at the
> screw!
> >
> > Man, I'm having nightmares about having to pull an engine to have
> clearance
> > enough to grip that screw frim the outside of the head. Please tell me
> > another way! Would it be possible to chisel it off with a tool steel
> chisel?
> >
> > John
> > On Sep 21, 2015 16:39, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > that's a great idea John..
> > cut the head of the screw off.
> > that'll work !
> >
> > you'll have to get another screw ...very small penalty to pay.
> > and the remaining stud can just stay in the water pump which just goes
> > into metal recycling anyway.l
> > Scott
> >
> > On 9/21/2015 11:32 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > Scott,
> > Thanks for the encouragement! I think this one has me whipped. I think I
> am
> > going to have to cut the head of the bolt off with an air driven cutoff
> > tool, or pehaps a Dremel or Foredom tool. I have both. I've been futzing
> > with this all day and gotten nowhere. I think my Foredom with long shaft
> > and skinny chuck will get down in there.
> > On Sep 21, 2015 15:58, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Really a lot of 'fun' ...down to the One Last fastener.
> >
> > in rock climbing the hardest move on a route is called the Crux ...
> > like once you get bast the crux ..the rest is relatively not too
> difficult.
> >
> > The One Fastener ...get past this point and the rest is fairly easy.
> >
> > I love to unscrew stuck allen head bolts with a cold chisel and hammer ..
> > and ...a long cold chisel is a pretty rare tool , don't know how/where I
> > got mine ..
> > sure is handy sometimes.
> > and ...might not be able to get in there anyway.
> >
> > is the rear of the van elevated ..like on jack stands so you can get
> under
> > there easily.
> > I find it's always worth the effort to make working conditions better and
> > stuff more accessible.
> > So you can really get in there and root around and dig in ...and master
> > the beast.
> > Scott
> >
> > On 9/21/2015 12:52 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > Scott, I'm going to try the wiggler/universal thing this morn. I think
> > someone installed these extra, extra tight metal to metal with no
> > anti-sieze. They were really in there. Just this one to go.
> >
> > John
> > On Sep 21, 2015 00:25, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have used the 'drive a good allen tool into the screw' method on that
> > screw..
> > on a pretty long extension ..like 14inches at least.
> >
> > also ..very important...hitting the screw sharply with a blow helps
> > considerable to 'wake up the threads' ..
> > to the degree that...
> > say you're removing a 6mm allen CV joint screw ..and you can just feel
> > that it's about to strip..the tool in the screw head.
> > You give another 10 very sharp whacks with a good drift and ball been
> > hammer.
> >
> > try to loosen the screw again...still feels like's going to strip .,
> > 10 more really sharp whacks with drift and hammer.
> >
> > eventually ...with the same amount of rotational force applied to the
> > screw..it will unscrew.
> >
> > the large pipe screws your water pump ..
> > getting 'dead on' center with a tool can be a trick ...like things are in
> > the way ..
> > I've used a wobble drive extension to compenstate the the angle before
> > ..and that can work.
> >
> > Never put screws like this in bare metal-to-metal ..
> > and never make them extra, extra tight.
> >
> > On 9/20/2015 12:44 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way.
> > Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the
> lowest
> > one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds the big
> > metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the proper 6mm
> allen
> > wrench to fit into the hole in  the head. It appears, by way of
> inspection
> > mirror, to have been slightly buggared on installation of the pump last
> > time. This this is really tough to get when every thing is right and
> > perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to get this out. Very little working
> > room. I our aircraft maintenance shop in such circumstance I would use a
> > fresh sharp edged allen wrench and drive it with a hammer into the head,
> > then back it out. There is no room for this in this case. I'm open to
> > suggestions, Volks.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > John
> > On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > let us know how it goes John,
> > Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be
> > really a lot 'fun' ..
> > as in insanely difficult sometimes.
> >  Fortify yourself with plenty of patience.
> >
> > that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft
> > pulley, for example.
> > those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access
> > ..( I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw on
> > the w. pump ) ...
> > and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone.
> >
> > going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex
> > head screws to use instead.
> > a 13mm hex head one won't work ..
> > but 12mm hex head ones will,  as well as a very rear bolt in that thread
> > with a 10mm hex head.
> > Way mo' easy to get out next time.
> >
> > I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads of
> > all screws going back together...
> > stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later.
> > have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling those
> > screws bare metal-to-metal.
> >
> > have fun !
> > Scott
> >
> > On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your
> > printed instructions at my side.
> >
> > John
> > On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <
> d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by
> > disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet.
> Then
> > remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and disconnect the
> > small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush out of the pipe and
> > pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant will flow out. Then
> > remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the bottom of the pump.
> > This will pretty much drain the pump chamber.
> >
> > Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit.
> You
> > should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A short
> 13mm
> > socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom one off. You
> > should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to pry that pipe
> down
> > enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the studs. You may want to
> > replace the hose on the other side of the pulley.
> > Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to
> the
> > head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing both of
> > those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil O-ring. Use
> > good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects to the oil
> cooler
> > feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size for that pipe. It is
> a
> > loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and the fit will be perfect.
> >
> > Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the
> > heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off.
> >
> > You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket screws
> > and washers preferably with stainless.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com <
> vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <
> vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <
> vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <
> vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf
> > Of John Rodgers
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
> >
> > I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil cooler
> > and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view (picture
> > laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted driveway) what
> > would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from where it sits.
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>