Try getting some smaller or needle nose vice grips. You may be able to get it that way. An oxy acetylene torch word be a good asset to get that bolt loose enough to get it to turn. 

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 7:44 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L

I have another cross over pipe in hand. Will look tomorrow to see how close to the pump I can cut it off with a sawsall. Will go from there.
It looks like I can snake that pipe put of there once it's cut, and IF I remove the rubber hose - but can I?

John
On Sep 22, 2015 17:46, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" < scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> I was going to suggest that ..
> remove w. pump with pipe attached..
> but ...it's a tight fit getting the bare pump out ...
> haven't ever tried it, but wouldn't surprise me if it can't come out 
> with pipe attached.
>
> don't have to pull the entire engine ..
> just lower the back down a good ways.
> like up to a foot down in the back ..watch all wires, hoses, and 
> cables of course..that they are not pulled on .
> Then the whole muffler and all that can come off.
>
> the muffler heat shield ...a 'fun' VW trick there..
> the only way it really goes off and on ...
> like to install it, it has to be sitting on the engine, over the 
> muffler ( and attached to the engine cross bar bolts on the bottom if 
> you want ) ....then raise engine.
>
> Just be very patient, and determined ..
> good working conditions ...do things to get good access to what you're 
> working on .
> a couple of St. Johns Wart supplementa to reduce stress ....
> you'll get it.
>  I would work more on getting the screw head cut off, or the screw 
> unscrewed, at this point.
> scott
> On 9/22/2015 12:18 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Work, frustrating work on this problem continues. The grinding/cutoff 
> of the screw head didn't work. Space to small to get my grinding tools 
> down/up to the screw head.
>
> New question. The cross over pipe is connected by a short hose to a 
> flanged fitting bolted to the right hand head (as seen from the rear 
> of the vehicle). If I remove that end, and take off that hose, will I 
> be able to remove the pump the pump with pipe attached?  I could then get at the screw!
>
> Man, I'm having nightmares about having to pull an engine to have 
> clearance enough to grip that screw frim the outside of the head. 
> Please tell me another way! Would it be possible to chisel it off with a tool steel chisel?
>
> John
> On Sep 21, 2015 16:39, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>
> that's a great idea John..
> cut the head of the screw off.
> that'll work !
>
> you'll have to get another screw ...very small penalty to pay.
> and the remaining stud can just stay in the water pump which just goes 
> into metal recycling anyway.l Scott
>
> On 9/21/2015 11:32 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Scott,
> Thanks for the encouragement! I think this one has me whipped. I think 
> I am going to have to cut the head of the bolt off with an air driven 
> cutoff tool, or pehaps a Dremel or Foredom tool. I have both. I've 
> been futzing with this all day and gotten nowhere. I think my Foredom 
> with long shaft and skinny chuck will get down in there.
> On Sep 21, 2015 15:58, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>
> Really a lot of 'fun' ...down to the One Last fastener.
>
> in rock climbing the hardest move on a route is called the Crux ...
> like once you get bast the crux ..the rest is relatively not too difficult.
>
> The One Fastener ...get past this point and the rest is fairly easy.
>
> I love to unscrew stuck allen head bolts with a cold chisel and hammer ..
> and ...a long cold chisel is a pretty rare tool , don't know how/where 
> I got mine ..
> sure is handy sometimes.
> and ...might not be able to get in there anyway.
>
> is the rear of the van elevated ..like on jack stands so you can get 
> under there easily.
> I find it's always worth the effort to make working conditions better 
> and stuff more accessible.
> So you can really get in there and root around and dig in ...and 
> master the beast.
> Scott
>
> On 9/21/2015 12:52 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Scott, I'm going to try the wiggler/universal thing this morn. I think 
> someone installed these extra, extra tight metal to metal with no 
> anti-sieze. They were really in there. Just this one to go.
>
> John
> On Sep 21, 2015 00:25, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>
> I have used the 'drive a good allen tool into the screw' method on 
> that screw..
> on a pretty long extension ..like 14inches at least.
>
> also ..very important...hitting the screw sharply with a blow helps 
> considerable to 'wake up the threads' ..
> to the degree that...
> say you're removing a 6mm allen CV joint screw ..and you can just feel 
> that it's about to strip..the tool in the screw head.
> You give another 10 very sharp whacks with a good drift and ball been 
> hammer.
>
> try to loosen the screw again...still feels like's going to strip .,
> 10 more really sharp whacks with drift and hammer.
>
> eventually ...with the same amount of rotational force applied to the 
> screw..it will unscrew.
>
> the large pipe screws your water pump ..
> getting 'dead on' center with a tool can be a trick ...like things are 
> in the way ..
> I've used a wobble drive extension to compenstate the the angle before 
> ..and that can work.
>
> Never put screws like this in bare metal-to-metal ..
> and never make them extra, extra tight.
>
> On 9/20/2015 12:44 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> OK, I have the removal of parts to get to the H2O pump well under way.
> Three of the allen head socket bolts came out with minamal fuss, the 
> lowest one, the one on the bottom left of the pump, the one that holds 
> the big metal pipe in place, I cannot remove. I can't even get the 
> proper 6mm allen wrench to fit into the hole in  the head. It appears, 
> by way of inspection mirror, to have been slightly buggared on 
> installation of the pump last time. This this is really tough to get 
> when every thing is right and perfect, but now, I'm lost as to how to 
> get this out. Very little working room. I our aircraft maintenance 
> shop in such circumstance I would use a fresh sharp edged allen wrench 
> and drive it with a hammer into the head, then back it out. There is 
> no room for this in this case. I'm open to suggestions, Volks.
>
> Thanks
>
> John
> On Sep 16, 2015 14:54, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>
> let us know how it goes John,
> Depending on a few factors....replacing the w. pump on a 2.1 can be 
> really a lot 'fun' ..
> as in insanely difficult sometimes.
>  Fortify yourself with plenty of patience.
>
> that cross-over pipe ...is geniously captured behind the crank shaft 
> pulley, for example.
> those 6mm allen screws ..which can be badly stuck, and hard to access 
> ..( I have a cut-off 6mm allen wrench specifically for the lower screw 
> on the w. pump ) ...
> and in a bad case, have spent an hour on that one screw alone.
>
> going back together ..I manage to find a few rare M8 X 1.25 small hex 
> head screws to use instead.
> a 13mm hex head one won't work ..
> but 12mm hex head ones will,  as well as a very rear bolt in that 
> thread with a 10mm hex head.
> Way mo' easy to get out next time.
>
> I strongly recommend Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on the threads 
> of all screws going back together...
> stick's em nicely, prevents corrosion, comes apart smoothly years later.
> have done it a million times...and I would not dream of assembling 
> those screws bare metal-to-metal.
>
> have fun !
> Scott
>
> On 9/15/2015 5:23 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> Dennis, thanks. I will give this a good look in the morning with your 
> printed instructions at my side.
>
> John
> On Sep 15, 2015 7:56 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> If you're not looking to do a complete coolant change then begin by 
> disconnecting the hose from the pressure tank to the water pump inlet. 
> Then remove the bolts holding that pipe to the water pump and 
> disconnect the small oil cooler hoe from the pump. Coolant will rush 
> out of the pipe and pump opening. Tilt the pipe down and more coolant 
> will flow out. Then remove the bolts holding the crossover pipe from the bottom of the pump.
> This will pretty much drain the pump chamber.
>
> Loosen the nut holding the oil cooler in place. Slide down just a bit. 
> You should now be able to remove the three nuts holding the pump. A 
> short 13mm socket on a 3" wobble extension should help get that bottom 
> one off. You should then be able to remove the pump. You will have to 
> pry that pipe down enough to tilt the pump and get it clear of the 
> studs. You may want to replace the hose on the other side of the pulley.
> Remove the 6mm (10mm head) bolt the holds the other oil cooler pipe to 
> the head. With the pump out you should be able to manage replacing 
> both of those hoses. Finish removing the cooler and replace that oil 
> O-ring. Use good clamps, spring or crimp. For the hose that connects 
> to the oil cooler feed you will find that it is likely the wrong size 
> for that pipe. It is a loose fit. Install shrink tube on the pipe and the fit will be perfect.
>
> Carefully check the water pump pipe for corrosion especially near the 
> heater return fitting. This piece likes to leak or even break off.
>
> You can do most of this job from above. Replace the Allen socket 
> screws and washers preferably with stainless.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com 
> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> 
> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> 
> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> 
> <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>] On Behalf Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 11:31 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Coolant Drain - 2.1 L
>
> I need to drain some/all coolant in order to replace hoses on oil 
> cooler and coolant pump. From a practical do-it-yourself point of view 
> (picture laying on your back under the van in the slightly slanted 
> driveway) what would be the best approach. Can't move the vehicle from where it sits.
>
> John
>
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