D23 is the best choice to move that power to. It's an unused larger connector. You will have to find a connector for that larger pin. As a temporary measure you may be able to clean up the D15 connection. Another option is moving it to G2 which is a spade connector, however that's a fused power source so check to see what other loads are on it (varies by year etc).

Angus

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 10:12 PM, Cary Chiang <ccchiang1@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> Many thanks to all who offered their help and advice.  I've been off the
> list for many years, and was unaware of that nifty test harness.  I
> couldn't build one on short notice however, since all the Radio Shacks
> around here closed after the bankruptcy, and I didn't have the diodes
> handy.  The other info was very helpful, also.
> I spent some time with the van yesterday with a multi-meter, and found 12
> volts at the alternator terminal, but none at the terminal inside the black
> box, or at the coil terminal with the key on.  I ran a 12 volt jumper wire
> to the black box terminal, heard the fuel pump energize, and the engine
> started right up.  After shutting off the engine and disconnecting the
> jumper wire (but with key still in "on" position), I heard the ECU / fuel
> pump relays clicking continuously.  I found 9-10 volts at the coil
> terminal, where previously there was none.  It seems that I may have a bad
> connection of the D15(?) wire that some of you mentioned?  I ran out of
> time to check for voltage / corrosion of that wire at the fuse block, but
> will check for it next time.  In reading the thread on the wiring bypass
> harness, I saw mention of a "D15 carbon / corrosion problem", and
> installing a relay to take the load off of that wire.  Rather than install
> a relay, is it possible to attach the D15 wire to another "key-on 12 volt"
> source on the back of the fuse block instead?
> 
> 
> On Fri, Sep 25, 2015 at 5:16 PM, SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott ) <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> 
>> fwiw ..
>> I define 'overheating' as inability to sustain running ..coolant
>> dissapears, boils over, pukes out ...or is consumed in the engine ...in
>> any case ...it's obviously badly and actually overheating.
>> 
>> The other condiition is 'running hot' ..
>> that it may read say 60 % of the gauge, but can keep going like that a
>> long time.
>> 
>> which is it ?
>> 
>> one thing to watch for ...
>> exhaust gases get into the coolant area of the engine ..which
>> immediately displaces the coolant ..
>> and water pump can't pump exhaust or air of course...
>> What it looks like is ..
>> very hot engine, very cold radiator ...as if the main pipes are blocked
>> ...but they are not of course.
>> 
>> if you get that one , most likely one or both head gaskets or heads are
>> allowing exhaust into the coolant portion of the engine.
>> Heads have to come off.
>> it's quite common actually.  And there aren't external leaks or anything.
>> 
>> for sure you should make sure it has a good thermostat.
>> scott
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9/25/2015 11:27 AM, OlRivrRat wrote:
>>> 
>>>        If the BlkWire that Marc spoke of has 12v then check that the 2
>>> relays in the BlkBox above the
>>> 
>>> Coil are Switching ~ Have an assist' turn the Igni'Key while you ListenTo
>>> or Touch those relays ~
>>> 
>>> 1 Powers the ECU & the other Powers the FuelPump ~ They are Cheap ~ All
>>> Vanagons should have
>>> 
>>> a Spare 1 or 2 of those OnBoard ~
>>> 
>>>        Also in regards to BadBatt' ~ I have had a Batt' with a
>>> ShortedCell so it still had the Ability to
>>> 
>>> Crank the Starter QuiteNicely but there was not EnoughJuice to make the
>>> ECU Happy ~
>>> 
>>> 
>>>              ORR ~ DeanB
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 25 Sep , 2015, at 7:20 AM, Marc Perdue wrote:
>>> 
>>> If the van had alternator problems, i.e., the alternator died and the
>>>> van ran till the battery ran out of juice, it could have killed the
>>>> battery. Why not start at the beginning and see if the battery's good?
>>>> 
>>>> Marc
>>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Sep 24, 2015 at 11:33 PM, vw_van_fan_Mark <madvws@cox.net>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> None of the grounds up under the dash have anything to do with whether
>>>>> the van runs or not. There is a key-on power black wire that goes from
>>>>> the dash area back to the engine compartment and that wire plays a
>>>>> critical role.  On most vans the black wire goes to the ignition coil to
>>>>> power it and to turn on the ECU power relay as well as enable the fuel
>>>>> pump relay. So check for 12 volt power at the coil when key is on. Since
>>>>> it is an 86 the exact wiring path can vary. But since this may have
>>>>> started with work done on the alternator it would be wise to check for
>>>>> constant power on that stud in the engine wiring box.  When you get back
>>>>> to the van with a meter I'd be willing to help you check things out.
>>>>> 
>>>>> There is a wiring tool you build to bypass a lot of the known failure
>>>>> areas that can keep a van from starting.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=349429&highlight=wiring+bypass
>>>>> 
>>>>> Mark
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Cary Chiang wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I'm trying to help a first-time vanagon owner get his van running.
>>>>>> It's an '86, with 2.1L and manual trans.  I was told that the van was
>>>>>> being
>>>>>> driven almost daily, had some sort of alternator problem, and then
>>>>>> failed
>>>>>> to start one day.  A mechanic diagnosed that the spark plugs weren't
>>>>>> firing, but a lack of money prevented any further work.  I noticed that
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> ignition switch was functioning poorly, and temporarily swapped in a
>>>>>> good
>>>>>> used one.  Next, I noticed that the fuel pump wasn't energizing when
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> ignition key was turned to the accessory position.  I ran power
>>>>>> directly
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> the fuel pump to get it running, but the engine still won't start (I'm
>>>>>> assuming because of no spark from the plugs).  I'm assuming that there
>>>>>> is an electrical issue that is affecting both the fuel pump and the
>>>>>> ignition system.
>>>>>> I've cleaned up the two
>>>>>> multi-pronged ground connections above the fuse block, and replaced the
>>>>>> ECU, but am running out of easy ideas.  I plan to go back with a
>>>>>> multi-meter, and check for voltage at the fuse block and at the
>>>>>> terminal
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> the engine compartment black box.  Hopefully I will have access to a
>>>>>> Bentley also, but my schematic-reading and Vanagon diagnosing skills
>>>>>> are
>>>>>> pretty rusty.  Any idieas and suggestions as to additional components,
>>>>>> grounds, or
>>>>>> voltages that I should check would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>