At 06:47 PM 11/7/2015, Dennis Jowell wrote:
>Is there a way to repair the onboard water level sensor in the tank
>that runs water to the sink?

Yes, you can cut it above the upper float limit and put it back
together with a sleeve.  If it's just damp inside you can bore holes
and flush it through with several changes of alcohol.  If it got bent
the slightest bit in the wrong direction it will ahve smashed one or
more of the reed switches, which at least in the originals were
soldered on with taut leads.  I had a long talk with Trevor about
that when he was setting up to produce them again, so I hope the new
ones aren't like that.  If you have one open, make sure the leads
have slack before you reassemble.  Re-seal and/or protect the top
from water, a couple drops inside will stop it working properly as it
is very high impedance -- wand and comparators are fed through one megohm.

>The sensor is the one that shows the red, yellow or green light. I
>replaced the long wand last year that I purchased from GOWESTY.  I
>move the floating magnet/sensor up or down without any lights
>changing. Always on yellow. The green or the red light won't
>activate showing me the actual level of water that I can use for cooking etc.

Pull the green wire.  Grounded should show green, open should show
none.  If so, look at the sender.  If not, replace the LM324 chip on
the left side of the board.

>Also, can I actually fill the reservoir to the top without it
>leaking? The Westy sensor is always on yellow for now.

Sure, the lid screws on tight.  It will bubble back out of the vent
when you fill.

Yrs,
d

>Thanks for any suggestions,
>
>Dennis
>
>Dennis Jowell
>Scotch Hollow Farm
>Newbury, Vermont