As Denis says, however I have never needed to remove the pulley.  I use 1/2” drive socket then use a 3/8 reducer inserted 1/2 way into the 24mm socket then use a 1/2” ~ 13mm open end wrench on the reducer to turn the socket.  You may have to put some sort of device on the wrench to make it longer for extra torque to break the sender loose if it’s in there pretty tight.  Usually the adapter between the sender and the engine block comes out with the sender, not a problem just put the new one back the same way making sure the two pieces do not line up perfectly so that your 24mm socket will only turn the sender not the adapter.  You may have to pry the muffler heat shield away from where you're working.  I do this by forcing a piece of wood in-between the crank pulley and the muffler shield and in some cases you may need to slightly bend the corner of the muffler shield where it is in your way to get the 24 mm socket on the sender.

> On Nov 16, 2015, at 12:00 AM, Automatic digest processor <LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> wrote:
> 
> A medium deep 24 mm thin wall socket 3/8 drive and a short breaker bar, not=
> ratchet. I also remove the water pump pulley.

Cheers,    

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 VW Westy, '00 Kawasaki 250 Sherpa, "98 Ducati 750 Monster & Lionel Trains (Collection for sale <http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm>)
Frank Condelli & Associates <http://www.frankcondelli.com/> - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems <http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm>
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