Frank,

I wasn't the one who asked for details, but thanks anyway.  I was
considering just tapping into one of the heater hoses that are behind the
cover near the shifter.  Do you think that this would produce less accurate
 pressure/vacuum readings than running a line from the engine compartment?

Larry A.

On Fri, Jan 1, 2016 at 4:39 PM, Frank Grunthaner <frankgrun@aol.com> wrote:

> Larry,
>
>
> I posted the details to the list several eons ago and pictures were (I
> believe) posted on Alistair Bell's web site. You should be able to find the
> details with an archive search on my email address. In summary, with my '82
> diesel conversions, I switched the primary coolant reservoir to the '83
> version, added a coolant level sensor and then tapped the coolant level
> sensor to add a 1/8" NPT fitting going to 1/8" compression tube. In series
> with the compression tube fitting, I added a miniature ball valve for a
> shutoff function and then ran 1/8" nylon tubing to the gearshift
> pass-through area. I cut a 1/2" diameter hole to the side of the gearshift
> hole and brought the nylon tube through a grommet to the dash area. I used
> a triple loop of the nylon tube for slack, added a miniature brass
> tee-valve (2-way) to serve as a bleed port and connected everything to the
> gauge set. In the heater cover, I mounted a set of gauges including two
> Volt meters (one for the alternator circuit and one to monitor the
> secondary RV battery for the camper), an oil pressure gauge and an oil
> temperature gauge and finally a water temperature gauge. As you can see, I
> like my gauges. In any case, I originally used VDO gauges and later
> switched to digital Speedhut gauges with their 270 degree display.  For
> using the coolant pressure gauge, I fired up the engine, let it get to
> operating temperature and bled the line. With the nylon tubing, it was easy
> to see any bubbles in the line and then easy to eliminate them. Anytime I
> need to access the coolant system, I turn off the shutoff valve at the
> reservoir, maintaining the liquid circuit. Since the boost gauge is
> operating in the liquid hydraulic mode, the pressure and vacuum response is
> instantaneous. The fitting in the coolant level sensor includes a nylon
> extension that brings the inlet to the same depth as the bottom of the
> sensing electrodes. Been running this system for more than 25 years and the
> nylon has remained flexible with no leaks.
>
>
> Hope this helps,
>
>
> Frank Grunthaner
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
> To: Frank Grunthaner <frankgrun@AOL.COM>
> Cc: vanagon <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Fri, Jan 1, 2016 12:57 pm
> Subject: Re: Wondering about coolant physics
>
>                 Frank
>
>         Can you give a More Detailed Explain' of How/Where you did this
> install ~
>
> &Or ~ Post a Link to some Pic's ~
>
>                                                 ORR ~ DeanB
>
> On 1 Jan , 2016, at 12:51 PM, Frank Grunthaner wrote:
>
> > Is use a mechanical boost gauge mounted into the heater cover. Works
> like a charm, showing vacuum overnight and system pressure when underway!
> Good for low coolant diagnosis and cap seal issues.
> >
> > Frank Grunthaner
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jan 1, 2016, at 10:46 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
> >>
> >>      Larry
> >>
> >>       A Boost Gauge might work ~
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 1 Jan , 2016, at 11:17 AM, Larry Alofs wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Once, a few years ago, someone on this list said that he had a coolant
> >>> pressure gauge on his dash.. I have wanted one ever since, but have
> not run
> >>> across a suitable gauge that would read a reasonable amount of both
> >>> pressure and vacuum.  I would also need to find or make a suitable
> fitting
> >>> to attach to the top of the radiator (banjo bolt?).  Maybe some day...
> >>>
> >>> Larry A.
>