I have a perfect set of plastiç tubes, but they are in Alabama and you,
wherever you are, are probably not.

Jim
On Jan 14, 2016 5:28 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> The force created to push a hose off a connection is much like a cylinder.
> The force is factor of the pressure X the surface area or in this case the
> diameter of the hose. The 1.75 inch diameter at 15 psi is much greater than
> that 32 psi at .3125". If you want to calculate the force the formulae is
> Area = (pi × d2)/4 . The fuel line also does not see the expansion and
> contraction from temperature changes that the cooling system has. Using the
> correct hose, clamps and if it makes you feel more secure there are ferules
> that can be slipped inside the tube to prevent it from collapsing from over
> tightened clamps.
>
> If you think the $300 for the pipes is expensive imagine adding shop labor
> to get them installed. Especially once this added to the bill for the
> engine
> replacement and tow. If you get real unlucky you may get to pay for paint
> damage of some cars behind you or worse an environmental clean-up.
>
> I am extremely happy that some enterprising companies and individuals are
> making unique parts like this available. If no one buys than no one will
> provide. I have done some creative fixes including having a machine shop
> make barbed inserts for me and using both copper and off the shelf
> stainless
> tubes.
>
> Now if only someone could supply the rectangular headlamps again!
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Stuart MacMillan
> Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 12:21 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: More leaks
>
> I agree about the barb, and that's been one of my biggest concerns with the
> Vanagon plastic fuel line. No barbs,  30 psi fuel, and hoses clamped on
> each
> end.  I had that pop off once when I first had my '84, and dodged catching
> fire by pure luck.  I check it regularly now but am tempted to replace it
> with rubber fuel line all the way to the pump.
>
> I'll use some epoxy, but epoxying a stainless steel barbed sleeve in would
> be a better fix if such a sleeve existed.
>
> $300 plus $60 shipping for a couple of pipes just seems excessive. Not to
> mention all the hours of fun under the van.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dennis Haynes
> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 5:20 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: More leaks
>
> Clamped hose connections need more than friction to hold the hoses in
> place.
> The barb provides a stop and an additional sealing surface as the hose gets
> pushed off, the reduced hose diameter ahead of the clamp becomes like a
> compression seal which increases with pressure. When a customer tells me
> they can't afford this repair I suggest they make sure their tow plan will
> get them home and maybe they should even save for an engine.
>
> So far every VW engine I have had to replace has had a cooling system
> failure in its past. Maybe not immediately but sometime there was a
> failure.
> I have seen these hoses separate a number of times and if they do go at
> highway speeds some engine damage is going to happen. Loose that coolant
> with some red hot parts inside and just think of letting a pot (especially
> aluminum) boil dry on a stove?
>
> Do some type of fix with epoxy or something to get a hose stop back in
> place.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Stuart MacMillan
> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 1:48 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: More leaks
>
> There are lots of ways to fix this, but I was thinking about why it
> happens.
> It's the corrosion of the sleeve.  Corroded metal expands at the surface
> and
> allows coolant to get in between the wall and tube, which is a lubricant.
> The clamp on the hose is not strong enough to keep the hose from working
> off
> as the sleeve moves out.
>
> The real fix would be a new stainless steel sleeve, but it's taken 28 years
> for this one to fail, and the rough corroded surface should actually grip
> the plastic better when it's tapped back in and clamped.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vw_van_fan_Mark [mailto:madvws@cox.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 6:53 PM
> To: Stuart MacMillan; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: More leaks
>
> I just use a propane torch on low to gradually heat the metal insert and
> then I tap it back into the plastic pipe. If the barb end of the plastic is
> gone, I don't worry about it.
>
> The plastic pipe end was not molded around the metal insert sleeve. The
> pipe
> was machined inside and then the insert was inserted.
>
> Mark
>
> Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> > Yep, the plastic barb end was in the hose and is now removed.
> > Apparently a previous attempt at repairing the leak used two hose
> > clamps, one was only on the extended steel flange, and the other was
> > on the very end of the hose about 1/4" over the tube, and at some
> > point slipped off.  Now I know why is was just hanging there on the
> plastic tube.
> >
> > I'm reluctant to drill into the tube since that creates stresses that
> > can lead to splitting "down the road". It looks to me that clamping a
> > backstop for the steel flange into the hose (the GW brass insert) will
> > adequately hold the flange in the tube. But if it works itself out
> > again
> it would now
> > pull the hose off the tube. . . .   Maybe I should use a screw down clamp
> on
> > the tube rather than the spring clamp?
> >
> > Stuart
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> > Behalf Of Dennis Haynes
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 5:48 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: More leaks
> >
> > The plastic end was molded around that metal tube and the molded part
> > included the barb to hold the clamped hose. For the tube to slide out
> > part of the pipe is missing and maybe still inside the hose, usually
> > stuck at the next bend. The GW kit is not a fix unless you rivet that
> > inner sleeve in place and then deal with the hose being deformed on
> > the inside. The fix is one of the replacement pipe kits.  As for
> > discoloration originally those pipes were bright white, not yellowish
> > brown. With care the pipes can be replaced without dropping the tank.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
>