I just use a propane torch on low to gradually heat the metal insert and
then I tap it back into the plastic pipe. If the barb end of the plastic
is gone, I don't worry about it.

The plastic pipe end was not molded around the metal insert sleeve. The
pipe was machined inside and then the insert was inserted.

Mark

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> Yep, the plastic barb end was in the hose and is now removed. Apparently a
> previous attempt at repairing the leak used two hose clamps, one was only on
> the extended steel flange, and the other was on the very end of the hose
> about 1/4" over the tube, and at some point slipped off.  Now I know why is
> was just hanging there on the plastic tube.
>
> I'm reluctant to drill into the tube since that creates stresses that can
> lead to splitting "down the road". It looks to me that clamping a backstop
> for the steel flange into the hose (the GW brass insert) will adequately
> hold the flange in the tube. But if it works itself out again it would now
> pull the hose off the tube. . . .   Maybe I should use a screw down clamp on
> the tube rather than the spring clamp?
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Dennis Haynes
> Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 5:48 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: More leaks
>
> The plastic end was molded around that metal tube and the molded part
> included the barb to hold the clamped hose. For the tube to slide out part
> of the pipe is missing and maybe still inside the hose, usually stuck at the
> next bend. The GW kit is not a fix unless you rivet that inner sleeve in
> place and then deal with the hose being deformed on the inside. The fix is
> one of the replacement pipe kits.  As for discoloration originally those
> pipes were bright white, not yellowish brown. With care the pipes can be
> replaced without dropping the tank.
>
> Dennis
>
>