

| Subject: | Re: Water pump test results |
| From: | Alistair Bel |
| Date: | Sun, 1 May 2016 17:57:41 -0700 |
Open tho access port on top of tank, fish out the pump. Look at bottom of pump, the intake. You will see a little tab that is the centre of the pump impeller. Give the tab a twist , do it with tap switch on. See if that starts up the pump. I have found that as the pumps get old they can " hang up" and not spin. Alistair > On May 1, 2016, at 5:49 PM, Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > > Hi all, > > My potable water pump is not working. I replaced the faucet with a > Shurflo, not necessarily because the original faucet was bad, but > because I wanted to. Having city water is not a consideration for me; > I've never hooked up to city water and don't intend to. I also like > the fact that the Shurflo is variably adjustable and that the faucet > itself is adjustable up and down. > > After installing it, I made sure there was enough water in the tank > that the pump should work. There has to be .5 to .8 gallons or the > pump won't turn on. I had enough water in it that the yellow light > came on on my display, roughly between a third and half a tank. I > checked the voltage at the blue and brown wires coming from the pump > itself and got 0 VDC with the faucet off. With the faucet on, the > voltage was 12 VDC (or maybe -12 VDC). This seems to indicate to me > that the faucet switch is working correctly and that voltage is > getting to the pump when the faucet is turned on. It also seems to > indicate that the pump itself is bad. Am I interpreting my results > correctly? > > Thanks, > Marc Perdue
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