The Right Stuff .
awesome flawless quickly-curing stuff.

the measured gap of distance between head and block is VERY important.
I put bare head on with metal rings..
measure that gap all around ..I aim for 3.5 mm.
if it's close to that, head can be installed with good sealant there.

I have seen too large a gap ( not enough rubber gasket squish..and it
leaks after a while. )
and too small a gap ( pinches rubber gasket after a while and it leaks . )

and a tilted head ...3 mm on one end, 5 mm on the other end. Faulty new
AMC head.

just like lubing mechanisms all over the van ( I do about 150 different
little points )
what lube is used ,
or what sealant is used,
  is not nearly as important as CAREFUL METICULOUS WORKMANSHIP.

On 05/07/2016 09:55 AM, TJ Hemrick wrote:
> Time for a survey!   No,  not what tires to run.   Which sealant (goop) do
> you swear by when you replace heads on motors YOU build or have built?  I
> saw one write up and they advise to NOT use what comes in the gasket set.
> Some people say "Right Stuff" is best.   A tube of "Reinzosil" from Victor
> Reinz came in my set but, in a similar light, GoWesty states the proper
> crank seal does not come in the gasket set but should be tossed and a
> different one bought separately.   No wrong answers here and if you have
> facts and figures to back up your choice of product, all the better.
> Let's avoid the whole, "My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's
> girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl
> who saw some guy use _________."     With that in mind,  not sure what the
> "experts" use but as the man says, "Let's get it on!"
>
> TJ
> 87 Wolfsburg with JB weld drying on the sealing flange.
>