Given what was on hand (so I thought), I first used a 1/2" breaker bar
with extensions on
the EMPI flat tool.
The 1/2" breaker bar started to bend, or square hole in EMPI tool
was getting messed, up so I stopped using that.
Ironically, I may well have that socket
albeit in a 12 point version.
I see a trip to KMS tools soon. They have a great selection of one off sockets
in impact and regular metal types.

And not to beat a dead hammer, LOL, but any warnings or criticisms on
my technique were deserved and were only taken as such.

Neil.

On 5/8/16, Ed McLean <email99@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> I suggest getting a proper 46 mm or 1 13/16" socket ($19 from Sears or $10
> from Tractor Supply), a breaker bar and a 4" long 2" pipe.  A 200 lb man
> can gently exert 800 lb ft of torque by standing on the pipe and much more
> if he bounces a little.  If a LARGE chock is used the van will remain in
> place.  An additional chock placed at the alternate wheel will also help.
>
> The proper socket will not slip off the nut nearly as easily as the flat
> plate hammer wrench.  You will also not chance destroying a lug or hitting
> the wheel with the hammer.  You will be able to properly torque the nut
> when you are finished by gently standing on the pipe at the proper place
> determined by dividing 365 lb ft by your weight (in pounds).  No bouncing
> this time.
>
> I've done this many times.
>
>
> Don't hit the striking face of a hammer with another hammer.  Both are
> hardened steel that has been made even more brittle by work hardening.
> They can shatter violently.  Always wear safety glasses!
>

--
Neil n

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