Toques multiply in my barn

Alistair 

> On May 8, 2016, at 1:39 PM, Angus Gordon <birdworks@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> I have an eight foot torque multiplier in my barn...
> 
> Angus
> 
>> On May 8, 2016, at 9:46 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
>> 
>>       I've occasionally wondered why one of our Van'Fam' Fabricators (Alistair or ?) hasn't come up with a
>> 
>> Torque Multiplier Tool, Or an A Mod to the Old one for the Bug, that will work on a Vanagon ~
>> 
>> 
>>> On 8 May , 2016, at 10:05 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>> 
>>> Any time you are tryingbto remove a large nut - heck, even some smaller nut
>>> or bolts - some extra precautions are in order. Dennis covered his pretty
>>> well. For myself, if I can get at it,  throw a rag over the work. You can
>>> never tell when a piece of shrapnel will come flying off.
>>> 
>>> As for large bolts or nuts such as the axle nut they really ought to be
>>> covered. In industry such items can be huge an subject to enormous torque.
>>> When  I worked in the aviation industry, (I'm old enough now to feel like
>>> the first mechanic to work on the Wright Brothers flying machine) we used
>>> what was called a Sweeney Wrench to tighten and loosen the nut that held
>>> four blade propellers on the shaft. Some of those went to 2400 foot lbs.
>>> The Sweeny could deliver, as it was a geared, chain drive apparatus with
>>> splines inside to hold onto the shaft while it turned that nut up to torque
>>> - or loosened it. Sometimes  I think we  need one of those when it comes to
>>> having to deal with the nut and stub axle on our Vanagons. There's no way
>>> that nut won't turn with a Sweeny!!
>>> 
>>> John
>>>> On May 8, 2016 10:06, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Depending on where the jack stands were placed the weight behind them is
>>>> already trying to lift the front off the ground. It is normal for a
>>>> threaded fastener assembly to require much more torque to loosen then
>>>> applied for tightening, that is part of how they work. Tension and
>>>> friction. Rust and corrosion can make things worse. Normally, the brakes
>>>> can be serviced without removing the hub. It only needs to be removed if
>>>> servicing the wheel bearings or replacing the backing plate.
>>>> 
>>>> Dennis
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>>>> Of Don Hanson
>>>> Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2016 9:22 AM
>>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>>> Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
>>>> 
>>>> Incredibly, when I was once trying to remove the axle nut from my 84,
>>>> after getting it all up on jackstands, etc.....
>>>> 
>>>> ....I got a really long cheater bar and put it onto my 3/4" drive
>>>> breaker bar, after locking the wheel with the Ebrake.   I put my own full
>>>> body weight (165lbs) on the end of the bar...nuthin...  Asked two of my
>>>> friends to get on that bar with me....We lifted the front of the vanagon
>>>> off the ground, and still didn't get that nut to budge...Bouncing on that
>>>> breaker bar with three guys standing on it....the front wheels just bounced
>>>> up and down....finally cut it off
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:12 AM, mike riley <mkriley1@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> You can.t have too many warnings about flying debris! I had to undergo
>>>>> eye surgery to remove a piece of steel from my cornea acquired in a
>>>>> industrial setting with safety glasses, gogeles, and a face shield on.
>>>>> The best way is no impact at all. Take the cotter pins out and have a
>>>>> socket and breaker bar.  Put it on the passnger side twards the front
>>>>> with the handle on the ground. Start the engine and slip the clutch in
>>>>> first gear. It will come off. Alternatively cut the nut off it is
>>>>> false economy to reuse it as the threads are most likely
>>>>> distorted.Mike
>>>>